Over the last few years I have had major brake problems probably due to incompetent repair and or parts.

In 2002 had new brakes, rotors and bearings done a local Vespia shop. Spent $650.

Less than 10,000 miles later, right front caliper and hoses replaced at a "discount" by same shop.

1 1/2 years later, Left front caliper replaced and both front brakes done by Pep Boys since I no longer wanted to deal with Vespia. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

2 years later, Replaced both front rotors, and left front caliper and brake pads by Pep Boys again.

Between the first brake job (120K) and last one (142K) I have spent $1569 on brakes!!

Last night (1.5 years later) brakes began squealing and pulling hard to right with a thunk sound. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

I am so frustrated I could scream. Of course enough time lapses that the brakes and warranty are no longer covered.

I guess I'm just ranting but are there any part manufacturers or recommendations that I should do this time? I have had it with Vespia and Pep Boys. Will be doing a search for a reputable garage in South Jersey within 20 miles of Berlin, NJ.

Heading to the poor house at a high speed with no brakes. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

Kris

Obviously not related to the squeal, but check to make sure the alignment shims haven't fallen out allowing the UCA to move around. That'll cause a pull and thunk under brake application. Been there done that <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

Oh, and why are you paying flunkies to do work on your vehicle that you could easily do yourself? With a few basic tools and some simple know-how, everything that's been done to your truck could have been done by you at a fraction of the price.

Okay thanks. I will keep the alignment shims in mind.

As far as doing the work myself, I don't have that much confidence. (As an additional excuse, I had hand surgery from an accident where I cut off a thumb and had it reattached-don't ask! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />) and I have limited use of one hand.

Of course tonight the brakes made no sound at all and gave no sign of a problem,<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> but they weren't hot like last night.

Squeal (squeeky brakes) can often be caused by cheap pads. I have my own rule of thumb for judging cheap pads, but eventually just learned to suck-it-up: I've been purchasing pads from the dealer; comparably priced with "premium" pads from AutoZone and no questions about the quality or the manufacturer.

I have the same thoughts about cheap parts. The last time the brakes were done, they installed "Lifetime" pads. *cough* Lifetime pads are pointless if you have continual problems.

I will probably take it into the dealer next week and bite the bullet concerning costs. The truck doesn't owe me anything since it's been great except for the brakes. But in the past five years I've spent an average of $25 a month in brake repairs. ($1500/60) It's a cheap car payment. But I just wish I could get a decent brake job.

Where do you live? If you're close to ATL, I'll do them for you. I can even supply the parts at my cost.

Thanks for the offer HazyDaze!

Unfortunately I'm about 900 miles away in NJ. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />
After stewing about the brakes, I took it back to Pep Boys and told them they had one more chance to get it right. They told me that one of the pads had gone bad, replaced the front set of pads and rotated the tires. At no charge.

The truck is riding and braking great now. No pull or squeal. We'll see how long this repair lasts. Keeping my fingers crossed.

Otherwise I might be headin' to Georgia. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Everything is right with the world when your truck's running fine. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

No problem! Always glad to help.



Just give me a head's up to get outta work early.



You got that right!

+1 on mitsu parts, it will run you a little more kris... but its well worth it. as for you getting a little singed for not doing the work yourself, dont sweat it. the calipers and pads are a piece of cake, the rotors... a little more difficult if they need resurfacing again. just like that movie field of dreams, post and somebody will reply (or in this case, offer to do the job). you got talked through the whole ecu/dizzy thing, and a majority of what you need to do is far easier than installing the dizzy correctly. since the pads were replaced, probably with the same aftermarket crap... that squeal will be back. next time it is though, save your self the hassle and go to mitsu (or at a bear minimum napa) and get pads from them. if you can change a tire you can replace disc break pads. btw, has one side over the other always started to go bad first?
ps. i couldnt help but notice that youve still got that red canoe on top of the monty... are you attempting to change the aerodynamics of a brick <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />?

Tools:
floor jack
lug wrench
14mm socket or box end wrench
hammer
disc brake piston compressor tool or make do (Lisle Tool 24300 spreader (best). Lisle Tool 24400 spreader (next best), or a pair of c clamp visegrips, or a humongo set of channel locks

Supplies/parts
Silicone brake grease
Premium brake pads
brake parts cleaner spray (two cans)

Procedure (pads only)
Position floor jack under front crossmember centered under truck. Raise jack saddle into contact with crossmember. Loosen lug nuts on both front wheels to hand tight. Jack up truck until tires are just clear of the ground. Remove tires and set 2' out to side of truck (seat). Calipers are on trailing edge of spindle. On the back of the caliper, there is a lock pin 14mm bolt that fastens the bottom of the caliper. Remove that lock pin bolt. Pivot the caliper upward off the pads on the upper slide pin as a pivot. It may be necessary to pry/hammer to caliper to start it pivoting. Slide the caliper toward the center of the truck on the upper slide pin, taking care not to tear the rubber accordion boots, and remove the caliper from the upper slide pin (DON'T drop the caliper). Examine the shaft of the lower lock pin bolt and upper slide pin - they should be slick and shiny without rust or pits. Lube both with silicone brake grease, replacing if not up to snuff. If caliper sliding on these two pins is restricted by gunk or rust or roughness, the brake will drag, overheat, wear the pads too fast, and eventually shed the friction material off one of the pads and the pad will fall out on the ground and you will have NO brakes until you pump the caliper piston out into contact with the disc (about 10 good pumps). Then the piston falls out and you've screwed the pooch good this time. Most important step. Make sure you don't let the caliper hang by the rubber brake hose. Hang it with wire or cord from something secure. Avoid kinking the brake hose, too. Examine the brake hose for cracking. Using your piston compressor of choice to retract the caliper piston, stuff it back into the bore (this is why you removed the fluid) until it's flush with the caliper face. Make sure the rubber piston accordion boot is untorn and in place in the collapsed position. Remove the old pads from the spindle. Inspect the inner and outer faces of the brake disc for scoring. If not smooth, replace as below. If the disc is ok, install the new pads in place of the old. Squirt some silicone brake lube into the bores of the upper slide pin and the lower lock pin bolt, more in the upper, light in the lower. Insert the lock pin bolt into the bore, spinning as you go to distribute the lube. Wipe off any lube slopped outside the boots. Slide the caliper back over the upper slide pin (excess lube will squirt out the pinhole in the sheetmetal cap over the back side of the slide pin bore). Rotate the caliper down over the new pads and insert the lock pin bolt and torque it down to pretty damn tight (I tap it tight with the hammer). Repeat on the other side. Replace wheels and tighten lugs hand tight. Lower truck and remove jack. Tighten lugs to spec. Check master cylinder reservoir fluid level and fill to max with fresh fluid. Pump brake pedal until you establish a firm pedal at normal height. Test brake function, being ready to snatch the hand brake if you goofed it. Do the victory dance.

If you have to replace the rotors, You need a special socket for the axle bearing lock nut, and I might consider bribing me for the correct method, or hire pep boys for that part...