So I was under the T100 greasing the fittings, when I noticed that my rear drive line is sitting near the bottom of the center support bearing bracket. I can move the drive line up and down a total of about a ? ô! Looks like the bearing separated from the rubber surround and is now sitting lower than center in the mount. I am going to order a new one but my question is;
When I put the new one in can I shim the bearing support bracket down some, so the two drive lines line up better?? My truck is lifted 4ö so there is more angle and wear on that bearing.
Have you guys with lifted T100Æs done anything about this, or is this not a good idea? I worry that it would then put more angle and wear on the first drive line at the T case connection.
As far as shimming it, I was thinking of using ¥ö thick aluminum plate under each mounting ear, along with longer bolts. (Alum so it wouldnÆt rust)
Has anyone done anything like this?
Would there be any negative side effects?
What thickness of shim should I drop it down, if any?
Do you lifted T owners have to replace this bearing often?
Is there a write up on the removal/install of the drive line support bearing? It looks pretty straight forward.
I plan to replace this drive line support bearing this weekend, so any response would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Im pretty sure i have an extra bearing laying around. Installed it and drove on it for maybe 100 miles, took it to a driveshaft shop and they refused to warranty the work unless they replaced that too.

So I now have a bearing sittin around, want it for a decent price lemme know.

The bearing should not be shimmed down and a lift does not wear it out faster.

That portion of the driveshaft is designed to basically be an extension of the transmission output and should remain directly in-line with it. If you shim it down it may vibrate.

The double cardan (CV) joint in the shaft just after the carrier bearing takes all the angle of the lift. The carrier bearing doesn't know the difference. Your lift kit should have kept the joint at the differential more or less straight by pointing the pinion at the CV joint.

And FWIW, if the bearing still spins smoothly (the bearing is good), I wouldn't bother replacing it yet. They are fairly pricey. The play in soft rubber mount is normal (that is what provides the isolation). The separation from the rubber isn't "good," but it shouldn't hurt anything either.

My drive line support bearing had separated from the rubber as far as I could tell so I replaced it. It was pretty expensive as Erik points out and when I drove it again, the improvement wasn't all that great. I did notice it a bit but it wasn't something like going from shaking the truck apart to smooth sailing. The install was pretty easy. I just followed the instructions in the Haynes manual without any problem.

Chip

Thanks for the replyÆs. Crawling under there and looking at it more and more I was leaning towards leaving the location of the CSB and NOT lowering it like you said. I understand what your saying about the double cardan taking all the angle of the lift.
As far as replacing it, I ordered one today ($100) and shot all the bolts with PB Blaster. I also marked the drive line location. So at this point I am ready for the install but its good to hear that I donÆt have to jump on this right away. I was sweating it! (daily driver)
When I drop the first drive line, does the bearing need to be pressed off/new one pressed on?? Or does it come on/off pretty easy with the tap of a hammer? I was thinking of getting a piece of pipe from work to go over the drive line to hit the bearing off and possibly using it to tap the new one on. Any comments on this?

Bearing can be removed by tapping around the inner race with a drift and a hammer. Use brass if you can, to avoid dinging the shaft. When off, clean the shaft well and check closely for dings from the drift. You can polist any down with a fine file a a little patience. Just like any bearing race stuck on a shaft.

FYI - never mate aluminum with steel / iron w/o something to separate them, like a teflon shim. Aluminum will ionically deteriorate unless it is of a special alloy. Especially for salty areas. Try an experiment - bolt a couple of scraps together and see what happens over time....

I woulda sold you mind for like 40 bucks shipped..

GL with the replacement one.

I new you were going to reply with a great price! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" /> Sorry, I would have bought from you but I felt under the gun to get this ordered and replaced! I checked the forum replyÆs AFTER I ordered it, stupid me. Although... I pay them when I pick it up. Now that I know I don't have to do this repair right away I will see if they can return it so I can buy yours. Is your CSB oem? Thanks again for the replyÆs!

I didn't have to use anything other than wrenches and maybe a plastic faced mallet. Piece of cake. What could possibly go wrong? :-) Really the hardest thing was disconnecting the drive shaft from the diff. flange. It was the first repair on the truck so I had no idea what to expect. The new part that I got even had little ears on it so if it comes unbolted it will just hang rather than drop.

Mine is marked "power train industries" and is an aftermarket unit but imho is oem spec and very nice.

Seeing your in cali it might cost a bit to ship since its pretty heavy, so hows 40+ shipping sound? Still much less than you found and cheaper than I paid (iirc it was 75 and thats with my discount thru my shop).

I just want it gone as I dont have a real use for it now. Like I said I took my truck to a driveshaft shop and they refused to warranty the work they did unless they also replaced the carrier bearing. I think maybe the one that I have was on the truck maybe 500 miles at most.

Lemme know, it aint going anywhere otherwise.