The FSM is pretty thorough. Follow the steps to do the valve checks and it tells you every thing you need to do to get the covers off.

Yes, its a lot of work to get the intake and hoses and wires out of the way.
For the driver's side you'd probably only need to remove the intake and plug wires, but I don't see why you'd bother to do only one side, especially when the other one is already leaking.

The valve cover gaskets on these engines don't seem to last much past 60k. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

'97 4Runner, '06 F350, '86 4Runner, '05 WR450
http://home.4x4wire.com/erik