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Re: Clutch Time
[Re: torquemonster]
#940457
04/28/09 07:14 PM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 114
OP
Wheeler
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So... My project continues.
I had to have a mechanic swap the the starter ring from the old dual mass fly wheel onto the new single mass fly wheel. At the same time he also pressed in a new bearing. The bearing was a bit of a pain because there is a shim that holds it into place that had to be cut down as that portion of the single mass fly wheel is thinner. The mechanic did a good job though, he even flipped the starter ring so my starter had fresh teath to engage with.
The rear main arrived mid last week, but was sent the wrong address yadda yadda yadda, I picked it up yesturday. The rear main is an easy job to do. I didn't even have to drain the oil out of the engine. That said it took 2 hours to do the install. Allot of time was needed to remove the old gasket material from the bearing retainer. Specail care was needed to ensure nothing fell into the now exposed oil pan.
It's a fairly large seal wo we didn't have the correct sized drift to get it into place. I ended up (carefully) pushing it in with a punch and light tapping of the hammer (not ideal but it worked.
The last step was to silicon the bearing retainer into place as I couldn't get the correct gasket. I used an extremly thin thin thin layer of silicon to ensure none went into the oil pan (on the back side).
Last step of last nights activities (post Flames loss) was putting on the fly wheel. If you ever do this, don't use a creeper! The fly wheel ways about sixty pounds. You have to lift it in place, hold it with one hand and get one of the bolts started. If you do this on a creeper it will role way when you're lifting the fly wheel into place, and you will learn a valueable lesson about gravity.
I now have a new rear main and fly wheel. My clutch is hopefully sitting atmy buddies dealership right now waiting for me to pick it up.
My next step is to manoover the transmission into place and lift it up. I will then wedge the clutch in, tighten it and slide the transmission forword. After that it should jsut be a matter of tightening bolts and hooking up wiring harnesses... oh and the dredded re-filling of the T-case. I thought it would be easier to have the transmission in place prior to bolting up the clutch as it give me more room to manoover the transmission when lifting it up.
Thoughts? Hints? Tips? Does any of this make sense?
I never thought I'd miss the smell of burning diesel so much!
Maurie
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Re: Clutch Time
[Re: CityYeti]
#940458
04/29/09 02:44 AM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,538
Body Damage is Cool
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I hope you put a reasonable amount of silicon on the corner of the seal carrier where the oilpan meets the block. thats a huge leak spot. there is nothing wrong with tapping the seal in with a flat punch and a hammer, its big enough that is can take some flex.
One thing though maurie...I am worried that your G54B clutch isn't strong enough, you plan on pushing your truck hard with a clutch that is rated for less power than the original one.
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Re: Clutch Time
[Re: torquemonster]
#940459
04/29/09 05:47 AM
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 7,309
Trail Leader
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In terms of hp, the g54b was rated higher than the 4d56T... diesel's higher on torque, but not by much, just a whole lot lower rpm...
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Re: Clutch Time
[Re: PHIL_]
#940460
04/29/09 08:10 AM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 114
OP
Wheeler
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My biggest concern is the pressure plate. Will it hold? I'll compare them when I see them. Right now I'm in shipping limbo (again). The clutch is MIA, it was shipped on time, but I'm guessing it is sitting in customs. I should know where it is tomorrow. I'll post some parts numbers at some point so people will know in the future. I've learned a valuable lesson about taking stuff apart before you have parts... then again, I wouldn't have known what was wrong until I took it apart.
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Re: Clutch Time
[Re: PHIL_]
#940461
04/30/09 12:42 AM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,538
Body Damage is Cool
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In terms of hp, the g54b was rated higher than the 4d56T... diesel's higher on torque, but not by much, just a whole lot lower rpm... well for having a clutch rated for less power/torque, plan on pushing the truck hard, and having the much taller tires than factory. I'm sorry to say but I can't see this clutch lasting very long. I would seriously get a stiffer clutch, source it from a Starion/Conquest
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Re: Clutch Time
[Re: torquemonster]
#940462
05/07/09 04:39 PM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 114
OP
Wheeler
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Clutch is in... Not ready for pics or part numbers yet, I have post traumatic clutch disorder and for now just want to repress the memories.
For now it has a single mass fly wheel, a 26 clutch and the original pressure plate.
The clutch feels good so far. The engagement is nice. The pedal still feels light, but solid (I assume this is because of the re-used PP).
I need to track down the correct pressure plate. Once that happens I'll gather parts (clutch, PP, etc,). Since the single mass fly wheel is in it'll be a much easier swap the clutch next time. I don't expect this setup to last uber long so I'll start gathering parts for next time. I may actually do the clutch again over the winter once I have the right pressure plate and clutch.
In-case you're wondering the proper break in procedure for an single mass, 26 clutch, used pp install: start with an easy 50km Highway; do the next 50km off-road, including water over the door sills, hill climbs, descents, and pulling a 4-runner up a hill. Follow this by a 1000+ km road trip to the Sask boarder, through Medicine Hat and back. It's important to complete the wheeling in the first 12 hours, and get at least 300km of the road trip under way in the first 18 hours, otherwise the clutch will fail... I read this procedure in the Exedy manual somewhere.
Cheers
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Re: Clutch Time
[Re: CityYeti]
#940463
05/11/09 07:28 PM
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Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,412
Body Damage is Cool
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Dude, you are funny.
Congrats on the clutch install.
1991 Mitsubishi Pajero XP TD LWB family hauler.
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