Your '95 should be Active-Trac, with no auto-hub really, but the CV is splined to the outer drive ring that's bolted to the Wheel Bearing hub. The rotor bolts to the back of that. You unbolt the outer drive ring after removing the dust cap and a retaining ring if I remember right, then slide it off the splined shaft of the CV.
Then, you're looking inside the'hub', and if it's like my '92, you have 2 phillips screws holding the wheel bearing adjustment lock ring to the inside of the hub. You remove/unscrew those two #3 phillips head screws[a smaller #2 tip usually strips them out] and tighten or loosen the nut assembly to set your wheel bearing clearance. You may have to move and rotate the 'holed' ring around till 2 holes line with the threads of the hub so you can install the 2 locking phillips screws again, but don't be tempted to loosen the nut in order to get both screws reinstalled <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shame.gif" alt="" />- You'll just end up with too much freeplay again with your bearings.
If you've go the whole hub off, and you haven't repacked the wheel bearings in awhile, now is the time to do so. I replace my wheel bearings on every second set of front rotors that I change out cause they're so cheap from NAPA. I only use the Mitsu factory hub seals since I never have water or mud issues with them from off-roading or wading through water. Hope this helps you out.


'92 SR Montero, Green, with 31" Yokohama Geolandar A/T Plus Tires, Mitsu factory fog light kit, on-board air compressor,Sony Radio and 10 disc changer. 213K and counting.....
Stock & Happy otherwise