02 sensors are both just about new. They are OEM parts installed about 1 year ago. 10k miles perhaps?

I don't know WTF is going on with the A/F ratio or how to fix it. Any suggestions are welcomed.

Well it seems decent. What you might want to do, is get a gauge, (this is the cheap way) and when you are cruising it should be at "stoich"/"lean". When accelerating it should go to "rich". A wideband A/R gauge would be best, but they start at $300 + welding a bung in the exhaust. (they are used for tuning engines, it would be useful if you want to tune your afm).
If you really want to get the most out of your engine, you could pick this up http://www.yotatech.com/f107/msii-v3-0-22re-harness-180714/ which is pretty awesome and fully user-tuneable.

Oh Ted, remember that guy "thief" that was here many moons ago, that had 161whp 22re? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

That thing is 'neat' and I appreciate the link and the help, but there is no way I'm sending backyard Bob with 1 post 425+ dollars for anything.

2nd, I looked on the website that he referenced. A search for 22re came up with nothing. They make a ton of stuff and maybe some of it will work with my engine. I didn't get a good vibe from that site. It seemed like an internet flea market.

3rd, the day I can pass a smog test with that home made contraption spliced in to my wiring harness is the day that I win the lottery. Do you live in CA? If not, I can't begin to tell you what a colossal PIA it is to deal with the smog people. I don't want any more attention from them.

Furthermore, I don't think I should have to have to resort to this extreme to get my truck to run right. My truck didn't used to run like this. I think something is wrong with what I've got and if it can be found, it can be fixed. Ted, please chime in if I'm wrong here...

I don't want to have to sink more money in to my truck unless it's absolutely necessary-and CARB legal.

Don't get me wrong, I really do appreciate the help. I just don't think this is the route to go quite yet.

Oh, that thing is definately not smog legal, not the slightest. It's a standalone computer, end user tuneable.
You should NOT have to go to those lengths to get your truck to run right with a mild build. (with an extreme build, yes you would need it). It is quite weird that the truck is running so odd. I seem to remember EB saying his 270 cam's ran weird with an LCE header, maybe it's an issue like that? Very odd...
Oh, and no CARB, as long as it passes the sniffer with no CE light, it's good, doesnt matter whats under the hood.

>>>*Sure, I will chime in although I really am a guy that makes one piece of metal fit another and tuning/teasing isn't my game unless it's some DCOE9's or a Holley.

But my files are full of the common stuff and solutions.

First, I don't like the fuel curve, but not being there for the actual test run I can't say how they produced it.

Engines that are lean early tend to ping. Engines that go rich on the top end use too much fuel.

I would be looking at the 02 sensor's location/signal after carefully resetting the TPS.

The other thing I didn't like was the looks of the plugs they were quickly blurring the sharp edges on the center electrode, a sure sign of way too hot.

One other thing we run into all the time is some of these engines tend to run lean. Now they should be all the same, they aren't. Why, I don't know. Then some give us fits with the EGR with any mild cam upgrade, again why? I don't know. Especially since most offer up no issues at all.

Your power specs looked very good to me, and I agree that modifications get the CA emissions folks in a snit very quickly.

Still, good offroad power reports and poor highway power reports make no sense to me so I admit to some confusion..There are lots of things this old man would like to have an answer for, I learn right along.

*Most I can offer up some suggestions, not always. Yours is odd...but good power numbers on the dyno? That should mean good numbers everywhere???.....*EB

This motor pings like nothing I've ever heard before. The o2 sensors are in the stock locations. The front sensor is in OEM exhaust tubing (OEM headers, too) and the rear is in the stock location after the (new OEM) cat. I'm hoping there is a sensor or computer or something that is bad but I have no idea where to look. If I thought I stood a good chance of fixing this I'd just start throwing parts at it and keep my fingers crossed. That isn't very cost effective though.

It was over 100 degrees here today so I had the AC on. Good lord, I thought getting on the freeway was scary under normal conditions... I think the AC robbed me of 50hp! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> I feel bad getting on the highway because I know the people behind me are cursing up a blue streak over the slow guy in the 4x4.

I did have LCE headers on it. If they didn't fall apart every couple thousand miles and have to be rewelded I might have kept them. They are sitting on my patio rotting away. I've not had good experiences with LCE stuff.

If the headers fit the OEM downtube, I'd slap them back on just for grins.

One of the reasons I went back to stock headers was because of a tech article that EB wrote several years ago on here. I thought I had it bookmarked but can't find it anywhere. It's a great article-I'd love to find it again.

I don't think these problems are completely new with the rebuild. It seems to me that it was pinging a bit more than usual and was a bit slower than usual for quite a while and progressively getting worse before the HG went south. I had assumed that it was because the truck was old and had a quarter million miles on it.

Greg, I hope I didn't come off as a **** to you in my previous post. If so, I apologize. After reading that post, it seems that I had a bit of a chip on my shoulder. I really do appreciate the input.

Nah ted, good dyno numbers mean good open loop, it's part throttle closed loop where he's having issues, when it's running off the o2 sensors and tps and such.

Also, gadget from URD found out there were big differences in how the MAF's read in 95.5+ trucks, maybe the AFM's are the same?

"Oh Ted, remember that guy "thief" that was here many moons ago, that had 161whp 22re? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> "

_________________________________________________________

>>>*Yep, sure do. I also remember a young fellow that said he was getting 250 to the ground with his 20R ported head on a 22R block and two sidedrafts.

I just smile at that stuff.

I had my old D/Dragster on the chassis dyno at Vic Mccloskey's shop out in Gresham many years back. *Some of you may remember him, they called him the "Draggin old man" because he was the world's oldest dragster driver at the time, into his 70's.

The best reading we got to the ground was 221 H/P, then the tires started smoking due to slippage. We even chained it down with comealongs, she still smoked the slicks. *Course it only weighed 1021 pounds, she ran 9.50's at 151 MPH.

Then I took in my 1961 Corvette, that was a 331" V-8. The dyno read 285 H/P to the ground, that car ran 12.65's at 114 MPH.

I did the math on that a few times, it doesn't come out. Later on in life I learned about dynos, they are all as good as the person running them.

We used to send our NASCAR engines down to Gale Force, because their printouts always showed around 50 more horsepower than anybody else in town.

The customers loved that, if I sent the exact same engine up to Loynings, my nice little limited sports powerplants would make 390 H/P.

The customers all liked the 445 H/P reading from Gale Force lots better....*LOL**. Just human nature there.

When I run a dyno session, I play with everything, looking for changes. I will say that almost without fail we find some ponies, too.

The modern systems are now actually pretty accurate, usually within 2% or so. The one I used to play with was a water brake, it had two dials on it and no printout at all!

*Lord. Now I sound old here, don't I?.... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />..

But I did manage to make so MUCH power out of a 22R that I broke the dang coupler, at least that what I tell folks.




(The truth is she threw a rod when I had the boost up around 25 pounds and jammed everything....)

*The hole in the steel wall of my shop is still there...and the particular pair of white cottons I was wearing that day are now..*uhh.....unusable...*LOL**...*EB

Where do I look in the shop manual to start poking around & learning how to find and hopefully fix an open/closed loop issue?

I'm way out of my league here so I'm learning as I go.

Could there be a problem with the knock sensor? I've been through the manual page by page and can't seem to find a value to test it at.

92 22re Rookie with a multimeter here... need help determining if the AFM is bad.

AFM readings are as follows:

Test 1

Between terminals Resistance per manual my reading

E2-Vs 20-400 ohms .916k ohms
E2-Vc 100-300 ohms 179.9 ohms
E2-Vb 200-400 ohms 279.5 ohms
E2-THA 2-3k ohms @ 68 degrees 1.611 @ 85-90 deg
.9-1.3k ohms @ 104 degrees
E1-Fc infinity Nothing.

Test 2

E1-Fc Infinity fully closed Nothing.
0 at other than fully closed .2

E2-Vs 20-400 fully closed .735
20-1000 fully open .72k

When I say that I recording nothing, I mean I recorded a zero-the guage didn't even budge. All tests were done 2x to ensure accuracy. I am leaning towards the AFM being bad but want some clarification from those in the know before I replace it. I want to make sure I'm right! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Any help is appreciated...

Both o2 sensors tested right on the money.