The mounts actually go under the body lift blocks. It goes frame, mount, block, body. 4crawler has diagrams on his site. It's pretty easy, 1" should be fine. Gives you alot more room to do maintenance.

I didnt know 4crawler has a 1 inch body lift, I had been wanting to do it since anything over 1 inches I recall means oyu need to weld in a piece of rod into the shifter mechanism. All the 2-3" kits have that..

Were it my truck, I'd switch the 35's back out to the stock wheels and see if the vibration stays or goes. If it goes, you know it's the tires/wheels. If it stays, you can more likely look at body vibrations.

For a 5spd? I had to cut and weld mine to make it fit with the boot. i also had to use a short shifter kit. he makes screw on extensions if all you're worried about is the extension tho. i didnt use one.

I have an auto, every single kit I have ever seen is only 2inch or 3inch and it needs to have the shifter assy extended. I dunno. 1 inch i doubt would change enough to extend much of anything tbh.

This vibe I am talking about started w/ the 33 tires right after I hammered on the inner fender/firewall. Then I switched to 35's on the same rim's. When I switched to 35's I had them all balanced and I got an alignment. Still have the same vibe. So I took it back and had them check the tire balance. Still have the inconsistent vibe that seems to come and go on different patches of pavement 40+mph. (its not always there, thatÆs what is driving me crazy!)
So that tells me the vibe wouldn't be from the drive line, tires, rims, wheel bearings(checked, no movement), because they all spin consistently. Correct me if I am wrong. IÆve also put the truck in neutral when I feel the vibe and it is still there.
Its like it will only do it if the pavement is just right.
Other wise the truck drive's, pulls, and looks perfect on 35's! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> I am so happy with the power I have w/4.56 & 35's.
IÆm also thinking it may be the crappy old Procomp shocks that may not be absorbing everything on certain patches of pavement. Which I am very close to buying Bilsteins. CanÆt wait to feel the difference all you talk about!
The only other thought is body mount bushings not absorbing the different pavement vibes, and I only think this because I picked up the vibe right after hammering next to the front mounts.

With a 1" body lift there is no need to relocate the radiator and no need for bumper relocation brackets. You simply drill new holes 1" down on the bumper brackets which in return raises the bumpers 1". This is what 4crawler web page states.
Loosing 1" of my shifters wont bother me either.
I am just holding off on sending my rock sliders in for powder coat until I make sure I am going w/ a 1" body lift and were exactly it will place the body of my truck.

The problem isnt so much the rest of the truck or t-case, its the column shifter-since adding an inch causes it to be misalligned.

I had adjusted mine since they do eventually wear out and found when I did so it wouldnt hold L at all till I put it back closer to stock. That was less than an inch for me.

Ah, that's different!

When one changes metal shapes, one changes the resonant frequency of that shape. As a result, one can get some very unpleasant harmonics. Volvo had that with wind in the cabin if the rear windows were lowered on the V70's for example. It pounds with painfull force. Triumph got a noisy screechy ring going on some of their engines due to a resonance of the timing cover on some of their engines.

Luckily, the fix is usually quite easy. Change the frequency. Triumph stuck a blob of putty on the cover to dampen in. Volvo drivers don't lower the rear windows alone. You can do similar by a bit more hammering to change the shape, or relocating some components to the cut pieces and changing their resonance.

There is also the possibility that you've cut a structural shape, and have created a mechanical wiggle/shimmy as a result. I haven't seen your cuts and hammering, so I can't say. Rather unlikely, but possible.