Ok. I'm new to the trooper thing but I love mine so far. I have tried to search the forum but got bogged down sorry if y'all have answered this before (I'm definitely not computer savvy ).
It's a 1988 4door. I have been recently losing coolant and have got real hot 2x. I see no puddles and in the am after a full nites sleep I am smoking white/grey out the exhaust. feels/seems like a head gasket. The head gasket was replaced about 8-9 months ago before I bought it. My question is can an intermediate wrench turner change this gasket in a weekend? I am good mechanically but haven't tried any thing like this before. It sounds fun but...its my daily driver too. So before I tackle this can some one give me some info? My Haynes manual is real vague on this procedure. i read about some guys changing to AMC heads. Where can I find one?

youll most likely need a new head. these things crack like they were designed to.


http://www.aluminumheads.com/newheadcast.html


replacement shouldnt be too hard for the average person. if you can do a timing belt you should be able to replace the head. be sure to mark and label all vacuum lines. youll also likely be replacing them too.

Yes, your head is probably toast after overheating twice. The symptoms seem to support this. I got tired of changing head gaskets, and finally realized/admitted that the head on my 2.6 was bad. I went with the AMC head, and haven't had a problem since. The link to buy AMC heads is shown in the previous post. I found them easy to deal with. I bought the head with new valves already installed.

It takes me more than a weekend to change a head and gasket, but I'm slow at this stuff. If you do it yourself, just go slowly, take notes and pictures so you can get it back together. I use lots of sandwich bags too, and airline luggage tags to label things.

Take a look at the pictures I've linked below.

Thanks guys. I appreciate all your knowledge. Sorry it has taken so long to respond. Unfortunately a new head is not in the budget this month. Call me crazy/stupid but I bought some Barrs Leak. It seems to be working in the short run. As I save for the new head. THanks again

Did you get the one step version, or the version that you have to drain and flush everything first? Just curious.

Stop-leak, in any form, is the debbil.

While I am sure someone will chime in with how their grandfather used it and in some vehicle and it is still running strong 50 years later...

But, the stuff is designed to lodge in small places, and it does not discriminate between the crack and other places in the cooling system. Sadly, in the Isuzu 4-cyl, this means the coolant flow through the head is further affected. In the end, if/when you go to do the head/gasket in the future, you will have to make sure you get all the crud out of there. This includes the radiator and the heater core.

It may prove out to be more of a headache in the future than you had planned.

Good Luck,
Michael

Ok. I replied awhile back about not having money to buy a new head.(boo hoo me <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/baby.gif" alt="" />)But it didn't show up. i just added the barrs leak 8 cyl formula without flush. So it has worked for 3 months!!!! I am calling AHR monday to order a new head! They offer rebuilt aluminum but... is that any better than where I am now? The AMC link was bad on their site so I call may answer all my ?'s about that. :p I have a good friend that is going to help with the swap!WHEW! Thanks for all your advice. i gotta start another thread about fuel delivery now. Please see what you can tell me there. Hee hee. Thanks to all Trooperheads!

You'll sorely regret if if you get a rebuilt rather than new head. The cost difference between new vs. rebuilt isn't worth the risk of a rebuilt head cracking.

HTH...........ed

Thanks Ed I think I am leaning the same way! The AHR guys also have new cast heads not too much more than the rebuilt.
Seems like since I'm gonna be in there like it might be a good idea to check/change timing belt? Any ideas on that?

I suppose you're all done by now, but it just occurred to me that no one mentioned the bits and pieces you should replace while 'in there'.

Since you have the timing belt covers off, a lotta folks would replace the timing belt and its tensioner, and the water pump, but never think about the oil pump seal. It goes out and creates a mess, at least it has on 4 of mine.

Since the intake manifold is off, replace the coolant hoses running to the throttle body. The coolant hoses going to the heater (through the firewall) should also be replaced, as well as the little bypass hose attached to the same metal pipe running around the back of the engine. You may want to get a new EGR pipe at the same time, they rust out, as does the AIR manifold. Don't just take it off and plug the holes, the ECM can't compensate for that kind of abuse and you will get terrible fuel mileage.

Last but not least, you are dealing with 20+ year old rubber vacuum hoses, and a lot of them. Don't even bother checking them, just replace them ALL. Mostly, it can be done after the head is back on, but is probably one of the main issues that can keep it from running right after this kind of repair. And doing all the hoses is a good way to make sure everything is reconnected.

One more thing, there are grounding wires or straps all over the engine compartment. They are there for a reason, put them all back, esp. the one from the head to the tranny bolt, valve cover to head and the valve cover to the firewall (all at the back).

Hoping you had fun, not frustration, SK