Thanks for the speedy reply Frank.

Is it ok that it is a straight through pipe as my findings online points to a valve which mine doesn't have. Should I get one or just keep it as it is?

There's no valve in the pipe - it's straight through. The accordian folds are for thermal expansion and alignment forgiveness, but seem to later become the area that weakens and splits from fatigue and/or thermal cycling. You can make one from copper tubing and braze it to the remains of the original. One way would be to cut out the bellows and slip the remaining ends inside a piece of copper tubing used as a sleeve. You might even be able to solder the pieces together if the joint is tight enough.

AFAIK, the only valve in the system is the EGR valve on the intake manifold, but I think M/T models and perhaps CA emissions models may have a thermo sensor included.

Frank

Stupid me. I supposed if i just looked i would have seen that the inlet on the inlet manifold connects to that valve thing on the right in the picture. Seems like it gets actuated based on a combination of the vacuum pull at the throttle body and the vacuum solenoid on the battery tray.

Thanks for helping out Frank. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Learn something new everyday....CHECK! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />

I was recently able to aquire a new EGR pipe for my 89 from the dealer. Be advised...Its not cheap, but it looks neat <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

That "valve thing" is your EGR valve.



I'm not familiar with the SA & later-than-Gen1 models, but it sounds like the solenoid valve you're describing is the purge canister solenoid. If so, it has nothing to do with the EGR system.

Frank

I don't have an FSM for 93 non-USA model, but do have other(s) that should help with the Gen II 3.0.

Thanks. I have many manuals but there are some things it just doesn't explain.

progress

ready to be shipped out to the workshop.

I would suggest that you also send the lower intake manifold to the rebuilder and ask him to specifically check the lower flanges for front/rear warp/bow and etching around the coolant passages. Those manifolds have a tendency to need a slight milling on a rebuild.

Frank