Thanks for the tip. Will definitely do that. This what it looks like for the record

That coolant port looks good - but even if they're all that clean, I'd put a straight edge on both flanges and make sure it isn't bowed.

Frank

My proposed list to the workshop - did I miss anything?



Disassemble and find the cause of the knock if possible

Block

polish crank
new main bearings
re-bore (only as much as necessary)
new full piston assemblies (bearings, piston, rod, pin, rings) observing clearances
check deck flatness and machine if necessary/recommended/advised
clean & Paint block - black

Heads

check head flatness and machine if necessary/recommended/advised
check for cracks <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />
check condition of valves and lap/replace/machine as necessary
new valve stem seals
new hydro lash adjusters
check condition of cam and rockers - machine/replace as needed
Clean and repaint rocker covers - close match to original colour
new rocker cover gasket seal - rubber
new cam seals back and front - use new style which is slightly bigger than oem.

MISC

New oil pump
New waterpump
New cambelt (supplied) - set timing
New clutch and pressure plate - Use LUK or Mitsubishi
Resurface flywheel
Rotate crank gear
New Crank bolt (Mitsubishi only) - carefully observe torque tightness on critical bolt
Use gaskets where applicable - minimize gasket maker
observe mating surface of intake manifold - repair/machine as necessary
clean/tap threads of headbolts before assembly.
Clean, repaint and re-gasket sump.
New cam tensioner pulley
New cam tensioner spring

Don't rush as I'm not in a hurry. Thanks

1) OE head thickness spec is 84mm/3.31"
2) Standard head flatness spec = <0.05mm (.0019"), limit 0.2mm (.008"). If they're bowed more than .004", I'd consider replacement heads.
3) Limit total removed from deck + heads to -0.2mm (-.008").
4) Check valve guides for looseness - particularly exhaust guides - replace as necessary with modified guides w/ring clips.
5) Clean exhaust manifolds and belt sand flanges to flat surface.
6) Remove freeze plugs and block drains, scrape/clean water jacket scale/sediment, replace freeze plugs.
7) Use bottoming tap to clean deck threads, afterward measuring clamping range of bolts/washers/heads combo - or use head studs to avoid later head sealing issues.
8) Apply anti-seize on crankshaft sprocket and balancer surface.
9) Apply RTV smear under outermost cam block parting lines to prevent oil leaks.
10) Apply RTV in F/R cam tower corners to prevent oil seepage from valve cover gaskets.
11) Apply 2 coats of Copper Spray-A-Gasket sealant to both sides of lower intake gaskets and to the head and lower intake flanges.
12) Clean the upper intake passages and EGR passages (if you have EGR).
13) 182Nm +/- 4Nm (134 +/- 3 lb-ft) torque on crankshaft bolt (new spec)
14) 110Nm (80 lb-ft) torque head bolts (new spec)
15) Felpro oil pan gasket (there are 2 - use the better one and add RTV in the corners per instructions)

There's plenty more, but any good machine shop should know most of the clearances and how to put it together. If you tell them too much, you might scare 'em away. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Frank

Thanks Frank

I agree. I don't want to say too much because I don't want them to think :

'Why is this kid telling me how to do my job...'

I just want to highlight the main things. I will just give them the pages of the FSM that entails the parts they will deal with in order for them not to play the tolerances by ear.

I'll add these to the list tho

Check valve guides for looseness - particularly exhaust guides - replace as necessary with modified guides w/ring clips.
Remove freeze plugs and block drains, scrape/clean water jacket scale/sediment, replace freeze plugs. (new / reused <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> )
Apply anti-seize on crankshaft sprocket and balancer surface.
Apply RTV smear under outermost cam block parting lines to prevent oil leaks.
Apply RTV in F/R cam tower corners to prevent oil seepage from valve cover gaskets.

Thanks <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Don't try to reuse the freeze plugs - new ones are cheap and once used are worthless.

I believe that the 3 most important things you can tell the machinist that he is likely to overlook or not do are:

1) The head bolt length situation. Many of the 3.0L blocks just do not have sufficient deck hole depth - particularly after a rebuild. It is extremely important to measure the bolts in the installed position to see if it's necessary to grind to length.

2) Head bolt torque value - was revised to 80 lb-ft and may not be included in the shop guide.

3) Crankshaft bolt torque value - also was revised and may not be in the machinist's manual.

There is much anecdotal evidence that 3.0L rebuilds - even from reputable remanufacturers) have head gasket failure. From my inspection of several 3.0L blocks, I believe that #1 and #2 above are (in order) the main reasons.

Frank

I should buy you a case of beer when this is all said and done.

Thanks for your input Frank. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I'll settle for a Springbok steak or some well-marinated wild boar next time I'm in SA. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Frank

Let me know when you are here and we will make a plan. You will enjoy my father's gen1 montero lwb with a 3.2did transplant.

http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php?t=30425

had a chev 4.3 v6 at some stage and a toyota 2.0 turbo diesel. Lots of stories to tell.

went through a wall as well (just a few scratches really). hehe

Machine shop still hasn't touched the motor. Probably only towards the end of the month. Meantime I'm just slowly cleaning some stuff.

Got the fuel rail and intake plenum sorted today.





<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />