Looks like the one on the right in your pic matches the new style, and that it will just need a deep socket or an extension.

That's what I used. I posted the same question in my thread, with pictures, when I did it a month ago and drew no reply, so I put it in with normal socket and extension on a torque wrench. I wrapped an old piece of belt around the crank pulley to protect it and cinched a chain wrench around the belt. I wedged that in place and torqued the crank bolt down. Worked like a champ, but I still have no idea if I got the "right" bolt.

EDIT: Justice and Hazy posted up at the time and said the bolt was the right one. "3rd Gen" crankbolt is what Justice called it. Take back the longer one...hopefully that's the one that cost $146 <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

I wouldn't be too worried about the radius, though its purpose is to stop fatigue cracking since cracks are most likely to develop where sharp angles meet. On the other hand its not very difficult to radius the crank grinding wheels corners and put it back when grinding the crank. Nitriding on the other hand isn't a deep hardening, but rather a molten salt bath treatment that adds abrasion resistance to the journals. If you do without re-nitriding you might consider looking into a Frantz style supplementary oil filter to catch all the tiny bits that pass through a regular filter.

Enjoy!

The latest bolt is the one on the right - 1101A022. I entered the original number (MD138069) into the part finder at mitsubishiparts.net and it returned 1101A022 as the current replacement part.

Frank

Getting the radius right is easy on a standard fillet. The mits crank is undercut. That profile might be machined with a cutter but most likely its roll formed.

web page

Not a common machine...

Typicly cast iron cranks are not nitrided.

If I was to get a crank nitrided I would look at ion nitriding. It works very wall and is less likely to warp the crank.

I agree that the crank should work just fine with just a normal grind.

Kevin

Kevin, yeah i was thinking typical radius to the crank throws. Oops
Now thats an interesting crank machine there!

Thanks Frank <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Sorry, pic posting and FE don't mix well. Never can remember my hosting site.

The belleville washer is about 5/16" thick with a slight dome outwards.

I like that new crank bolt design. I always was a little scared of all that weight hanging out there with the potential to flop around and fatigue crack if there's any misalignment. The oldest was obviously worst in that regard.

temporary fix until I can afford a new bumper some time next year

I got the bumper and tow hitch back on with some working lights

I have decided to keep the standard fog light system and will put an extra brake light in the centre window.



prepped organised and clean parts are nicely stored in a big boot <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />



and my first sticker - anybody want to send me a 4x4wire sticker? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />