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I wouldn't be too worried about the radius, though its purpose is to stop fatigue cracking since cracks are most likely to develop where sharp angles meet. On the other hand its not very difficult to radius the crank grinding wheels corners and put it back when grinding the crank. Nitriding on the other hand isn't a deep hardening, but rather a molten salt bath treatment that adds abrasion resistance to the journals. If you do without re-nitriding you might consider looking into a Frantz style supplementary oil filter to catch all the tiny bits that pass through a regular filter.

Enjoy!


Getting the radius right is easy on a standard fillet. The mits crank is undercut. That profile might be machined with a cutter but most likely its roll formed.

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Not a common machine...

Typicly cast iron cranks are not nitrided.

If I was to get a crank nitrided I would look at ion nitriding. It works very wall and is less likely to warp the crank.

I agree that the crank should work just fine with just a normal grind.

Kevin

87 Turbo Intercooled Raider, roller cam, torsen rear diff, LSD front diff, lockup auto with modified converter, V6 brakes, low transfer case gears...