would have been nice to ......

ditch the V
ditch 2 cylinders
increase displacement by 0.02 liters
change the fuel

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Yes, but I don't know how to do what your shop folks are suggesting on this engine. All you can do is spin the engine with the starter - BUT - the oil pump WILL NOT prime just by cranking the engine. You can pressure oil it, but that's not easy if you aren't set up for it. There's a trick that Kevin suggested a while back that works very well - see below.



No, it's not necessary - there should be enough residual lubrication from installing the rings.



No, it's not necessary.



Here's the way I do it:

1) Remove the spark plugs.
2) Remove the coil wire.
3) Disconnect the injector harness plug at the firewall.
4) Install a mechanical oil gauge in place of the oil pressure sender at the oil filter adapter. Use a length of tubing and a remote mount so the engine can be monitored while cranking. I usually attach the gauge to the front of the grille with a couple of plastic cable tie wraps.
5) Loosen the oil filter a couple of turns.
6) Unplug the CCV hose from the air intake duct.
7) Apply about 4psi regulated air pressure from a compressor through the CCV hose into the valve cover.
8) Crank the engine until oil gushes from the loosened oil filter..... then stop cranking, tighten the oil filter and clean up the mess. The pump is now primed.
9) Remove the air attachment and reinstall the CCV hose.
10) Install the spark plugs.
11) Connect the injector harness.
12) Connect the coil wire.
13) Start the engine and run at 1500-2000rpms for 20 minutes or until it's fully warm and all lifter noise is gone. The lifters will make a bit of clatter until they purge all air and pump up tight.
14) Oil pressure may spike over 100psi on initial start, but should quickly settle down to about 40-50psi. Watch the oil pressure and coolant temperature carefully during this period.
15) Once fully warm and sounding ok, stop the engine, drain the oil while hot, change the filter and replace the oil.
15) Drain the radiator and replace the coolant.
16) Connect a timing light, restart the engine and adjust the ignition timing.
17) Time for a break-in drive....... let us know when you get to that point and someone will give you a procedure.

Frank

Thanks Frank. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Very detailed. I will follow that as it sounds like a good procedure to follow - I just don't think I have access to the air pressure - will that be a real bad thing?

Can I block the pipe moderately with my thumb to create pressure in the crankcase area to push oil into the pickup.

Both ways seem to my reasoning to have the same effect but I fail to understand how that assists in getting oil into the pickup as the pressure will be the same in the oil passages as in the crank case area, or am I heading down the wrong direction with my thinking <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

I think the oil will come out pretty quickly at the oil filter as the workshop primes the oil pump by turning it until oil ( they said they use thick oil for this ) flows through all passages.

I will assemble and then go through my detailed check list to make sure I haven't missed anything.

I will ask my dad to come listen as well as he has started a few "cold" engines and his ear will be of great help.

Can you not come listen too? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />



For the fuel rail I'll fill the hoses as full as I can before connecting and also fill the metal tubes in the rail itself before connecting to get as little air in there as possible.

It will be if you can't get the pump to prime.



What pipe?



Air pressure at the valve cover pressurizes the sump, which helps push oil toward the pump and displaces air through the oil passages, ultimately priming the pump.



Maybe, maybe not. I haven't used a heavy oil for pump installation, so I don't know what will happen.

You could try filling a squirt can with oil and pump it through the oil pressure sender port - don't know if that will work or not.



That's completely unnecessary. The fuel pump will quickly purge the fuel lines and injectors.

Frank

I'm not sure what stage you're at in your rebuild...I'm new here & did'nt take the time to read all the posts to your original. I just installed a remanufacured long block in my Raider. I got it from Kar King Auto in Ontario,CA.$1200 for the long block,$200 for the core & $200 for shipping. $1600 total(if you choose not to return the core) is probably less less than you will spend on rebuilding yours. Just a thought.800-843-8349, ask for George.
Good luck,

Greg

I'm in South Africa so shipping will probably be more than what I paid for the rebuild.

I paid R10'300.00 for the rebuild ( including parts and labour ) - this includes a clutch kit as well

This amounts to about $750-$800

TR
Thanks anyway.

preliminary cost breakdown so far

This excludes ( i'll add this week - need to hunt for the invoices <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> )

bumper rear lights
wipe cloths
extra 12 & 14 spanner
extra 22 spanner - transmission bolts on top.
work light globes - they go quickly <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/drunk.gif" alt="" /> - i got a low efficiency now that seems to give good service - the tungsten just can't handle the bumps.
spotlights
battery
2x jerry cans
1x bottle jack
oils & filters
wires, relays & crimping lugs



at time of post $1 = R7.78

I hove gotten the engine to prime with the starter on a "dry" block, but I used a squeeze bottle of oil to prime all the passages on assembly, and I filled the pump with oil too. It will prime eventually, but it takes a couple of 30sec priming cranks to get pressure on the gauge. I put a wet rag on the starter, too.

Thanks everyone. from what I have heard it shouln't be a problem with the start up and I'll just crank until I get pressure with the coil disconnected.

Updates

New TO bearing


CV joints feel fine but I need to do CV boots <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />

Do what you want, but that's a good way to burn up a Mitsubishi starter. I only know that because I've done it trying to get oil pressure in a 3.0L. Maybe you'll get lucky, though.

You'll also want to disconnect the injectors.

Frank