it was easier to disconnect the manifolds...lift out the engine.....and then use all that space in the engine compartment to sit in and work on the exhaust..( which was soooo rusted!)

got some more work done

- took the air filter housing out to give some space
- took the battery tray out for some space
- got the PS pump out of the way
- alternator removed (looks like the bracket will only come off after i have removed the cam sprocket)

TO DO LIST
-exhaust manifolds
-inlet ports with fuel rail
-rear water pipes
-tranny
-engine mountings

TO DO LIST
-exhaust manifolds - CHECK - all bolts loosened and downpipe sprayed
-inlet ports with fuel rail - CHECK
-rear water pipes - HALFWAY CHECK
-tranny - NOT SURE WHERE TO START
-engine mountings - LAST ON THE LIST

I have searched extensively but can't find a writeup on the removal steps of the tranny to engine

Anybody got a schematic of which bolts to remove. I don't want to struggle with bolts that are unnecessary.

Any hints and tips to make it easier?

Just want to have some idea before i go underneath there.

TIA

I'll put up some pics today or tomorrow because I know it's not nice following a thread without a pics. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

I do not think there is any way to make it easier...if you are going to remove the engine or tranny then you Must remove all tranny to engine bolts as well as starter.

pretty mush everything under there

Why not ask your dad?
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

a hundred heads are better than 2. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

got the manifolds disconnected from the downpipes. It looks like its just the starter, tranny and engine mountings left before I can do the pull. I should start looking at places to rent an engine hoist towards the end of the month.

Pics as promised <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

I was reading here with regards to the EGR

http://www.mdocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15394

The thing is though that mine connects directly with a pipe from the outlet to the inlet without any valves. I thought about blocking off the holes but this seems to be a bad idea for power and economy.

My pipe has a crack in it so needs to be fixed/replaced.

I would just like some feedback on the technical aspects of why this helps the motor.

Thanks.

The last time I checked, the pipe was no longer available from Mitsubishi. However, they sometimes will put parts back into production, so a check with the dealer will give you a current answer. Otherwise, if you want/need to keep the EGR system active, you will need to find a used one or make one from copper tubing - it's not so hard to do and it will work fine.



It does a few things to help the engine and fuel economy, but to a minor degree...... the main purpose is to reduce NOx emissions at cruise throttle. It works by reducing the combustion temperature of the fuel/air mixture through a dilution of the inlet air oxygen content and by slowing flame propagation - which results in a cooler combustion temperature:

web page

If you're not bound by emissions laws and inspections, you can eliminate the EGR system entirely, block off the openings for the valve and pipe and plug the vacuum ports for the thermo switch and EGR solenoid. If you go that route, you may find you need to raise spark lead slightly for best engine performance, but be careful you don't go too far and cause detonation under load.... an unlikely event in a Gen1 3.0L, but something to be aware of that could happen.

Frank