92 22re Rookie with a multimeter here... need help determining if the AFM is bad.

AFM readings are as follows:

Test 1

Between terminals Resistance per manual my reading

E2-Vs 20-400 ohms .916k ohms
E2-Vc 100-300 ohms 179.9 ohms
E2-Vb 200-400 ohms 279.5 ohms
E2-THA 2-3k ohms @ 68 degrees 1.611 @ 85-90 deg
.9-1.3k ohms @ 104 degrees
E1-Fc infinity Nothing.

Test 2

E1-Fc Infinity fully closed Nothing.
0 at other than fully closed .2

E2-Vs 20-400 fully closed .735
20-1000 fully open .72k

When I say that I recording nothing, I mean I recorded a zero-the guage didn't even budge. All tests were done 2x to ensure accuracy. I am leaning towards the AFM being bad but want some clarification from those in the know before I replace it. I want to make sure I'm right! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Any help is appreciated...

Oh, why was it tested? See this thread. I'll post results there too. This one has got me stumped

When you say "When I say that I recorded nothing, I mean I recorded a zero", is that 0.0 ohms then, as in a dead short or nothing as in no change in reading on the meter when touching the connector pins, as in infinite ohms?

E2-Vs should increase somewhat steadily as the van goes from closed to open:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/AFM/index.shtml#AFMtesting

Might see if you can borrow an AFM from someone with a similar vehicle and give it a quick test.

I recorded 0.0 ohms when conducting that portion of the test. Does that mean infinite in electrical terms? In case you couldn't tell, I'm not entirely sure of what I'm doing with electronics. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Does the E2-Vs reading in either test look way out of spec to you? The book says it should be between 20-400 ohms and I read .916k ohms. That can't be right. In test 2, I came up with weird numbers too.

I've been looking for an AFM to swap in temporarily for ages and can't find one. Anyone I know that has a Toyota of my generation has a V6. I have no problem buying another AFM so long as I get a working one.

0.0 is 0 ohms (a.k.a. a dead short, just like touching the meter probes together):
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml#HowToUseAnOhmMeter

.916k ohms = 916 (k = multiply by 1000) and yes 916 > 400.

try car-part.com for an AFM.

Here's a few.

Call them if you want. They all ship.

Jason, it looks like you need to eliminate that one variable. Once you get an AFM under the hood that specs out it may fix the problem, or it will at least determine that the problem is elsewhere.

WOO HOO!!! I have a problem identified!!!!!

I'm going shopping for an AFM tomorrow morning. Car-part has been helpful in the past, but since I bought my current AFM from an online source and appear to have been rear ended, I think I'm going to shop locally this time. I'm bringing the multi-meter and the shop manual with me.

Thanks for the help-I can't tell you all how much I appreciate it. Next round is on me! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Might contact Davez in Placerville:
- http://davezoffroadperformance.com/

Dave didn't have one so I had to go elsewhere. I tested several and couldn't find a single one that was in spec. One was close, so I bought it but I wish I hadn't. The guy said I could return/exchange it if it didn't work and he said he could get remanufactured AFMs.

Later that night, I was thinking about it and decided to search for reman'd AFMs online and found several places that have them.

Does anyone have any experience with them? Can I expect one to be worth the money (around 300 bucks)? I'd rather go that route than try a used one that is 18 years old.