I was driving along at around 65mph when the engine suddenly quit with no fanfare.(no clunks,clangs,jerking,backfiring,etc).
It was as if I turned the ignition off. It would not restart or even fire at all whether I let it try to restart while I was still in a high gear(manual tranny) or with the clutch in and cranking it over.
The next day (temp was around 20F) it would fire while cranking and it sounded very flooded and it would quit immediately upon moving the ignition switch from the Start position to the Run position.
Spark seems good, but the plugs were totally wet.
It appears the the fuel injectors are constantly spraying fuel into the cylinders and not turning off at all.
Is this a ecu problem or a short somewhere.
There is gas in the oilpan.
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/barf.gif" alt="" />

Any suggestions on how to test or proceed would be aprreciated.
Thanks <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

It does sound like an ECU problem. You can use an analog ohmmeter to read any stored codes.

Check MontyMcV's site for the Montero FSM, download it and follow the instructions for pulling ECU codes. That's a strange problem, but you have to start the diagnostic work somewhere:

Mitsubishi FSM links and a lot of other good stuff that Bill is kind enough to host

Frank

One thing to check is the fuel pressure regulator. I believe there is a rubber diaphragm in them that if they fail, they allow fuel to enter the vacuum system, which super floods the engine in the way you describe.

That is a possibility. You can check it by replacing the vacuum line from the FPR with a piece of clear tubing. Failure usually shows on low vacuum - so if you rev the engine, a busted regulator should push fuel into the tubing..... but first you have to have the engine running.

Another test for excess pressure would be to squeeze the fuel line where it enters the the fuel rail and see if the engine will start. If you suspect low pressure, squeeze the return hose from the rail and see if it changes anything.

It'll likely take a bit of poking and head scratching to figure this one out.

Frank

Thanks for the idea about the diaphragm,how to check and also for the link.
A mechanic friend of mine is working on it and is without a solution at this time. I will pass along the ideas to him.
At the time I am dealing with a broken leg and I can't do a lot of it by myself.
If it is possibly the injectors that are staying open all the time, what could cause this? Could a shorted or broken wire keep all of them open?
Thanks again. I really appreciate the ideas and the 'out-of-the-box' type of thinking.
<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />
PS:The battery has been disconnected several times since the incident, so I don't think any codes are left, unless some will form with just trying to crank the engine over.

If you remove the vacuum line that attaches to the fuel pressure regulator, and fuel comes out of that line (or the regulator itself) then there's your problem.

Another idea- did you by chance recently wash the engine compartment, or run through some water? I had an injector short open and create a similar problem a while ago after washing the engine and getting the plug for the injector wet.

Good luck! Bummer about the leg.

According to my mechanic friend, it seems as if all the injectors are in the open position.
I will forward him the info after the Memorial Day holidays.
Thanks again. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
PS: Talking about shorting open, what could cause all the injectors to short open?

The most likely suspect is the ECU. That's where the signal comes from to fire the injectors and for how long. Another suspect could be the o2 sensor giving the ECU a very lean signal, which would cause the ECU to keep the injectors open longer.

A bad engine coolant temperature sensor that sends a dead cold signal to the ECU will also make the ECU hold the injectors open longer.... but not a constant-on.

Frank

A buddy of mine a similar problem when he engine refused to start. My mechanic told me to check and see if the injectors where firing right, if they weren't it could be a sign the ecu went bad, and for him it did. To see if the ecu is working right pull one of the injector connectors from the electrical harness off and attach a noid light or a 12v light bulb to close the circuit. Then have a buddy turn the engine over. If the ecu is working right the light should turn on for a split second every time the ecu tells the injector to fire. If it stays on or doesnÆt turn on at all then you might have a problem. Hope this helps.

Just my two bits, Check your timing. The timing belt tensioner may have loosened a bit and jumped time. Or the the distributor may have moved. Like I said, My two bits.