That's right, as soon as you put the shifter into 4hi or 4low the green 4wd light will apear on the dash. Then after you move a couple feel the wheel lock light will come on.

Ok, I had a chance to fiddle briefly with the truck tonight. With the selector in Park and the transfer case in 2WD, I am NOT able to move the truck. If I put the selector in Neutral, I can push it. Put it back in Park and push it, I can hear the pawl drop into place and the truck again won't move. That would lead me to believe that all is well with the transfer case or at least it's not stuck in Neutral.

I will add that both the transmissions have sat for an extended period of time; at least 3 years. Seems unlikely they would lose prime, especially with the torque converter right there to fill the pump.

I guess the next step is to procure a pressure gauge and see what I can find out that way, but this really sucks.

-Jim

I assume you bolted the torque converter to the flexplate? Did the converter slot all the way in? Did you prime the converter before installing? SITD...

Yup. The converter was still full of fluid from when the trans was removed a few weeks ago. It was only pulled out to replace the seal. Having learned from breaking the front pump on a Ford C3 eons ago, I triple checked to make sure the converter is seated all the way in. Yes, it's bolted to the flex plate.

I do have another theory after flipping thru the FSM last night. There are two additional parts to the flex plate assembly: the adapter plate which goes on the outside of the flexplate, and the "crankshaft bush" which goes in between the crank flange and the flexplate. I don't know if it's possible to reverse the order of installation. It's hard to tell from the manual diagram. If so, I suspect it could possibly move the flexplate further away from the trans and not allow the converter to seat fully into the pump. If someone has a 3.0 with the flexplate still attached, maybe you can tell me which piece goes where or at least give me a measurement from the rear face of the block to the flexplate. It would certainly explain why BOTH transmissions exhibit the same behavior.

converter socks in at just over 1"

So the mounting edge of the converter should be IN an inch from the trans bellhousing?

Do the autos have the cooler lines? If they do you could just take one of the lines off and stick it into a gallon jug and have a buddy start it up and see if the pump is pumping.

Or pull the test port plug and let it squirt.

Yes, recessed in the bellhousing by around an inch. The precise measurement can be taken by measuring the distance the converter mounting bosses on the flex plate are behind the engine block bellhousing flange. Straight edge across the flexplate and measure with a rule to the flange. This check is GOOD insurance. Converter should sock up to correct depth in 3 (THREE!) distinct steps, the two sets of splines and the engagement of the converter tube slots to the oil pump gear ears. The last one is the gotcha...

If the torque converter isn't full seated so that the engine goes up flush to the bellhousing without relying on the bolts to pull it snug, the torque converter can be damaged..... maybe the front pump as well.

I measured the exact distance at one time for someone here on the forum and posted the offset - IIRC, it's about 1 3/16", but before taking that as gospel, I'd search the forum to see if that post can be found.

Frank

Start the truck and with it idleing in park or neutral pull the tranny dipstick and see where your fluid level is on the stick......if the level is up on the stick about an inch HIGHER than the FULL indicator you have lost your front pump. No pump ..no move!