Sounds good, BJ, except the first time it happened I didn't think to tap on the carb. I just restarted the engine and drove on mild hills that didn't require the additional power of the secondaries.
When I got back, I took it to a highly rated tune-up shop in the area. They put it on a dyno where they could load it down and get the vacuum secondaries to open. When they did, the engine leaned out so badly it quit. They took the float bowl off and found that the float was operating correctly, but that the needle was stuck in the seat. They dislodged it, put the bowl cover back on and (using the sight gauge) said that the float was adjsuted correctly. They suggested that I try it again, and if it acted up again to change the needle and seat.
It did act up a couple more times on the trail, but tapping it fixed it (at leas temporarily). I figure I'll have to replace the needle and seat, but since the thing is practically new, was wondering if I should clean up the needle and seat (even if I put in a new one) with something that might help prevent sticking.
Also, on a subsequent occasion when it did it on the trail, we removed the float bowl right after the engine quit. The bowl was not full of fuel, it was almost empty. So, that makes me think that it's a case of the needle sticking closed, not sticking open. Also, due to the design of the TA float bowls, I don't see how a mis-aligned float could hang up on the side of the bowl.
Is there something I'm missing here?
Last edited by BobRowe; 06/12/09 10:20 PM.
1977 CJ-7, fiberglass body, AMC 360 w/ headers, DUI ignition, Edelbrock intake and Holley 4150 carb, TF999, Dana 300, 4.56 gears lockers, York air comp, 4" susp lift, 2" body lift, BFG 35" M-T tires, Megashifter, AGR pump & box, REP8000 winch.
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