my first VR4 had bad lifter tick. after running a full 5 qts of ATF thru it while letting it idle it never ticked again.

that engine went 3 years sitting on a pallet and its now installed in another car of mine. first fire 3 years later and its still tick free.

the thing about using ATF in the engine (as I has been told) is that it may clean the engine so well that some gaskets and seals that are half way worn; these seals could start leaking.......I don't want to go that way either

They'd start leaking anyway. Why not make the repair instead of overlooking it.

I know that sound like the saying ( If it ain't broken, don't fix it )

but I am not a skilled mechanic yet(it takes time, money, and effort to be one - I am working on it), I just grabed control over my life a month ago when I started working; before that I was a collage guy only

So when my car need big repairs I take it to a local shop. and these leak will cost; so I think at this time overlooking may work best meanwhile

atf in the motor will swell the seals and soften them and make them seal better.

Good read on oil

Kevin

So Guys, its a funny deal

after 3 years or so I am re-visiting this old question again

for the last 3 years I have been using a 10W40 Semi Synthetic Oil by (LIQUI MOLY) which was going very good for me, the crazy Adjusters ticking was gone for the 2 thirds of the oil life which I change every 7,000+/- KM (say about 5K Miles) depending mainly on how bad would the adjusters would go indicating the Oil is Due to change

weirdly the supply of this Brand of Oil have stopped for what ever reason !! the dealer simply quit I guess

now when I was faced with the oil change issue i looked around for other brands of the 10W40 oil, what I found was the Titan (which when I tried was not much better than a 20W50) Castrol Magnetic (my car drinks this before getting to the oil change interval faster that any other) other not very promising brands

to cut to the chase, one day I was in a petrol station and a well known service provider company had a Caltex Havoline 5W-40 full synthetic oil,
after looking around for 2 more days I just said "well as the 40 is similar to the 40 of the old oil I would go with it"
what I forgot to do is to take a look at the owners Manual which indicated that this oil is to be used for temperatures of 20 degrees (C) down to freezing !!

where I live it is rarely below this temp, and while the summer approach the heat is getting more & more


is the 5W-40 bad for my car ? <-- the adjusters noise did not go away like each time i use the old Oil

should I go to thicker oil or would this do?? my engine is @ the 300K KM mark (194K Miles) now

appreciate some insight <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I love liqui molly oil... does miracles for mitsu lifter tick.. thats the reason why i started running it in my mitsu 4g63t engine.... that was 200 000km..


the car now has almost 330 000km now and I assumed by now i would be due for a engine as i Drive that car fairly aggressive and I must say so far its one of the smoothest quietest 4gs I have seen. I have been running the 5w40 year round from -35c to +35c. I think u will love the 5w40, if u lived in canada I could sell u all the luqui molly u wanted

Honestly...it really doesn't make too much of a difference what viscosity you choose, as long as it's not 4 levels of viscosity out of the mfr's recommended fluid or something silly like that.

Changing your oil type might help quiet down a valve train a little bit, or for a temporary period, but it's a band-aid, and it probably won't fix your valve train if the noise is being caused by parts with excessive mechanical wear. In other words...just replace your lifters if you want the ticking to go away. Double check it's not low oil pressure causing the sound, though.

If you're in a warm climate like I am, you can virtually ignore the "W" rating on your oil, as it probably doesn't get cold enough to operate at that viscosity (unless I stay overnight in the local mountains in the winter, and a small handful of rare, cold nights elsewhere per year).

I've tried every oil under the sun, in some pretty high powered, high-boost applications. For me, I pretty much stick to Royal Purple in the trans and Mobil-1 in the crank case. I can't think of a vehicle I've owned that's run anything other than a 30 or 40 weight oil. From 1.8L SOHC 4 cyls, to 2.3 DOHC 5 cyls, to 2.8 and 3.5 DOHC 6 cyls, and 5.0L SOHC 8 cyls...some supercharged, some turbocharged, some N/A...some DD, some tracked...it's always been a 30 or a 40 weight of some variety.

Don't worry too much about it...in the end, I doubt it makes more than a few thousand miles of difference on a 200k mile motor...as long as it's well maintained and kept clean.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Thanks guys

well that a relief

probably the owners manual only suggests what good relative to cost.

will see how this oil change goes, will keep this updated <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />