would be nice to go wider, but here in PA, your tires cannot exceed 3 inches past the body even with fender flares. So keeping with the factory width isn't a want its a need.

My truck run's 36's and they rub SLIGHTLY. I built it to run 35's, but had a chance to get these 36s for cheap, and I like swampers, so....



You can build it as low, or high as you want to. I do not think the oil pan's are in the way. My 4.3 certainly is not. The sump is behind the axletube, and housing. The problem you're going to run into is that the Gen1 fenderwells arent big enough to "Stuff" 35's or 36's WAY WAY up in there. I could take the 2 inch BL off my truck if the front tire wells were larger, or I put some serious limiting bumpstops in there(I have none:8).



I really do not have a way to accurately measure this, BUT you'll obviously get more with coils. You've got to keep in mind though that TOO much droop is not good. You've got the limits of brake lines, driveshafts, steering linkage.. etc to contend with. Some folks have to put limiting straps on their axles to keep them from literally falling out. I've seen some CRAZY stuff happen with home brew coil links. better do your homework if you're going in that direction.

The BEST positive to a Coil setup is this.

You can mount the axle as far forward as you want to have an awesome approach angle, AND you can run as big a tire as you want to.

On a leaf sprung vehicle, the Front leaf mounts will ALWAYS be in front of your tires unless you're running 44's(not realistic for us), and the Springs will Hinder larger tires from turning to full lock. The TSL lugs 36's tickle the leafs when I turn full lock to the left. I would not be able to run ANY tire size larger than this without taking that into consideration.

Got my adjustable coil buckets and shock towers from Ballistic Fab.

My specs & pics: http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showf...;amp;page=0&fpart=1&vc=1

Also, on the sports, the front of the frame has a weak spot by the motor mount. ES97Sport had a breakage after a million miles of Colorado wheeling on his swap. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

Maybe you could use these for the less fab skilled? To move the leaf springs outward of the frame.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/frame-outriggers-45-p-251.html




Got a link? His was coiled with a dana 30 right??


All depends on the setup, thats why I've been looking alot into yota springs, they seem to get good droop with leaves. Might want to just go coils for droop though?

Landraider, what height lift springs did you use?

It appears, without the 2" BL and slighty low hangers, you got roughly 5-6" lift with those springs.

I Bought all 4 Used from a guy. I THINK they are 6 inch YJ Lift springs, but thwy could be 4 inch.

Looks like 2-4" to me



these are 6" springs

these are 3.5" springs

these are 2.5" springs

these are stock

Picture no worky...
http://www.extremegearoffroad.com/store/product.php?productid=16593&cat=338&page=1

Keep in mind those have a vehicle sitting on them too. Lots of weight there.

Stock Wagoneer springs.

If you wanted an SAS to be as "stock" as possible you'd want a Early bronco D44 and it's 2 link setup. This is the easiest way to do the swap, it's a little more expensive than the wagoneer swap but once you did it it would be cheap to maintain. I was doing this setup but then changed my mind in favor of using montero 2 link with waggy D44 (having an axle pile is not as cool as it sounds).

LR, yeah LT's is a budget SAS I think he's less than $200 into it ($150 being the D44) and all steel but the rear perches has been scrap metal. I'm gonna run Gen 2 two link up front on mine. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />
and Angelo if someone were to produce a SAS kit it could fit '83-'00 Monteros easily.