Nuke the below is from the kiatechinfo site

Engine overheats, but temperature gauge dose not verify
Coolant temperature sensor, Replace

? what is the operating temp for our sporty's ?

I know you have been fighting with this for a while I was just wondering if you ever tried to go back to the stock shroud and fan? That would be a good indicator if you new fan is defective or not up to the task. I also know this has been covered but is your fan blowing the right direction? Another thing to try is to drive around with you hood removed and see if it runs cooler. I know you can't do that allways but I will tell you if you have an air flow problem. You could also have other clogs in you engine somewhere, if you have'nt already go to a good radiator shop and have it power flushed and checked for flow. What kind of shape is your water pump in? They can go bad without leaking out the weep hole. I haven't read through all the post on the other thread so some of this could be covered but I just though I would though out some things that might work.

Good luck, Dennis

Dennis -

Thanks for the suggestions, I suppose I could go back to stock fan, but since the problem only seems to occur at high speeds, the fan shouldn't even be needed. Any faster than 45 mph I would think the fan should make no difference, and this problem only has happened on the highway or freeway.

About the engine clog suggestion: Are you saying a radiator shop can check my engine for proper flow? Or just the radiator? I have not done anything to check if my engine itself has a flow restriction so I guess that's a possibility. Also what is a power flush and is it different or better than a regular radiator flush you buy at the store and run in your radiator for a few days?

By the way I replaced the radiator so it's not clogged. The water pump is new as well. Almost everything is new except the engine lol... I'm interested in this clogged block idea though. Isn't there any way I could test for that myself?

I know it is flowing, when I fill the radiator up so it is nearly full, if I remove the radiator cap and let the engine warm up to operating temperature so the thermostat is open, I can see water flowing past and if I rev the engine a bit the water flows faster. I don't know if it's ENOUGH flow though.

Also, I tested the radiator for exhaust gasses (blown head gasket) and the test showed no gasses so I don't think the head gasket is blown. Also am not losing any coolant or gaining any for that matter. One thing I did notice however is that if I let the engine get nice and hot, like over 200 degrees, and I watch the radiator with the cap off, revving the engine a little bit will produce bubbles. This is after it has been thoroughly "burped". I assumed these bubbles are steam due to boiling water in hotspots, because the cap is off so there's no pressure thus the water boils easier. Or would these bubbles be something worse? They didn't show up as being exhaust gas so I figured they must be water vapor from boiling.

I found this on power flushing, it might help a little. http://car.tips.net/Pages/T005322_What_Is_a_Power_Flush.html

I hope you find something soon before you in the same boat I'm in, rebuilding an engine that got hot.

Dennis

If I am not mistaken, The whole problem started after the new FAN installation! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />

if you see the fld. move with the rad cap off when it gets hot it should also start exspanding and over flow thats what the res. tank is for. it might be you have a air pocket in the line somewhere, when it's cold is the rad. full and the res tank at it's full line ?

Anyone considered a faulty water pump???

High load/high revs may be a bit too much for a faulty water pump to flow, but may just manage in normal driving.

This is going to suck, but try a trip with the AC on and the heater flat out. The heater on should prove whether it is a heat removal issue or a water flow issue. With heater on if it a water flow issue there will not be much of a change in temp, but with a heat removal issue you will notice the engine temp drop fairly easily and it will depend on whether you have the cabin heat on or off.

He did that already........

----Speaking of a new Pump as per AXEMAN....


web page

Nuke have you tried changing the thermostat since all this started, or just remove the thermostat and try a test run. Without the thermostat the car may stay in the closed-loop mode but if it does not over heat it is probably a bad thermostat. If it runs hot with the thermostat removed you may have a clogged water jacket in the engine, an air-pocket in the engine, or a bad water-pump. It certianally sounds as if water flow is restricted.

Thermostat has been changed a few times.

Radiator has been thoroughly burped lots of times.

Water pump is new.