Do you have lots of flow through the tank on the radiator when the thermostat opens, look in the tank with the radiator cap removed, (be sure to remove the radiator cap with the engine cold and then bring the engine to operating temp while the cap is removed) and are you sure the water pump is correct because there is one for the SOHC and the DOHC and they look almost alike except for the sprocket.

Have you power flushed the block with the thermostat removed? There may be a lot of gunk settled in the block.

When you say "lots of flow" I don't know. I can see water flowing past, but I don't know if it's enought flow. I'm 100% sure the water pump is correct.

How do I power flush the block? Is there a do-it-yourself method?

water should not be moving through the rad until the therm opens, the fld should be all the way up to the top of the rad before when the cap is off and should start over flowing the same time as it heats up. Nuke is the fld all the way to the top of the rad neck when you open it when cold ? the water should more fast when the term opens.

Yeah it's completely full when cold.

The water doesn't look very fast when the thermostat is open and the engine is just at idle but if I rev a little it goes fast.

Have you checked the accuracy of your electronic temp sensor? Are you using the engine's OBDII sensor? Are you using the temp guage sensor. It sounds like water is moving in the engine.

To power flush you remove both radiator hoses and remove the thermostat then use a garden hose to flush from the top hose and then the bottom hose, get as much flow through the engine as possible.

Yes the temp sensors are accurate, I verified with separate sensors.

So far (correct me if I am wrong) New radiator, new coolant, new Thermostat, new water pump, temp sensor is good, new R.Cap, and............new electric fan with spal controller.....

Then, after the initiation of the E-Fan Ur problems began !!!!!!!

Any pressure test done?

Sorry if I missed something.........



P.S. Could be the bad karma from the Gremlins regarding ur

MASSIVE JOB OF THE HEATER CORE PROJECT a year or so back! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />


----gotta laugh at least <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Hydra: Remember these things all happened at the same time, and it's when the heating up began:

Lift kit
Bigger tires
RSG bumper
Electric fan w/Spal controller

So any of them could be the cause.

I have already established that it runs cooler with the stock bumper. I'm not going to test the tires by putting stock tires back on, sorry not gonna go there. Same with the stock fan, it's too much trouble to put back on. After putting stock bumper on it doesn't heat up any more during normal driving so I'm leaving it alone for now.

I am however waiting on pins and needles to hear from Everet, he's trying out a Jeep radiator and I am anxious to hear from him if it helps his temps stay lower. If so, I may do this too, a bigger radiator would be nice.

im not running fan shroud and no problems and i run mine in the ground daily. and beat the holy crap out of the engine on trails and temp never moves.

The only relative component involved here is the addition of the new fan.........IMHO of course!

I would NOT want to put the stock stuff back on either..... BUT u May have to.... ( in the direct interest of isolating the causative problem) <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

I would not worry about tires,bumper, or lift at all.....

Again IMHO.......Good luck Mike!


Thanks,

Mikey <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/patriot.gif" alt="" />