well not sure if this will help but mine still has clutch fan as of now. I run 1/2 all the time no matter what condition. Wow i was thinking of finding the perfect electric fan. Now im debating. Just have to cross less rivers...lol

ok, nuke, couple things- you are absolutely certain the water pump you have is for the DOHC? cuz i got one installed some years ago on my DOHC that was actually for the SOHC... had a LOT of warm running times with that water pump and didn't know it was the wrong one until it chewed up the timing belt, left me stranded and cost me almost 900 bucks...

ok, that's that one...

i am still thinking you have a cfm issue with that new fan, maybe the motor isn't getting enough power, maybe the fan just doesn't pull enough, i don't know, but basically, when you speed up and the coolant gets warmer, it's because you need more airflow...

ok, so, you took the winch bumper off and it ran cooler? ok, i'm trying to figure out how one has anything to do with the other, but it's possible with the flat face of the bumper that it's forcing air out and around the grille instead of into it, which, this would be the first time i've heard of it, but it could be cuz everyone else with the bumper still runs their clutch fan... maybe i should do something about redesigning it somewhat for better airflow... reason i build them the way i do is so the winch will sit inside and out of the way of the grille, but it is still 8" tall and could very well block lots of air...

here's what i would do- put the clutch fan back on, test it one last time, with the winch bumper on... if it runs fine, get a higher cfm rated electric fan, to be honest, i'd be using one rated at least for a v-6, if not a v-8... it's like lt. ripley said... "it's the only way to be sure..."

ok, i have 4" lift,bigger tires and elec fan with no shroud and mine never moves above the line just below half way...it shouldnt be a fan problem because you cool down @ idle and i can run a/c in hot weather driving @ freeway speed and ive tried without my fan on and it still doesnt go above that mark, come off freeway and it will start to climb, turn on fan and down she comes...you say w/p is 100% correct, is this because it matched the old one,didnt you have the same problem with the old 1 and thats why you replaced it, maybe the last guy put the wrong 1 in...i think its a flow problem not a fan problem...also did you ever happen to mix ext. life and reg antifreeze?..this will clog everything up

I'm completely done considering the fan as a possible problem, the fan isn't what should be cooling the engine at higher speeds, the fan is only for when you're slow or stopped. I have never had a heating-up problem going slow or stopped. It's only when going FAST so the fan should not even enter into the equation. Or are you going to tell me that when you are going down the freeway your clutch fan is blowing like crazy? I hope not for your sake...

Also, you guys who are saying yours never moves past the same mark on the gauge, first of all ask yourself if you are driving in 110 degree weather outside, because if you're in cooler weather then it doesn't matter, mine doesn't heat up either unless it's hot outside. Second ask yourselves if you have ANY idea what the actual temperature of your engine is... because most of you don't. The stock gauge will not go above the middle mark until 235 degrees or more! That tick below the middle where it normally runs, it will sit there anywhere between 180 and 230 or so. You could be running 220 or 230 all the time and you wouldn't even know it. So don't tell me your engine runs cool when you're looking at the dashboard temperature guage mmkay? Unless you're like Everet and you actually know what the temperature is lol... :P

Also I'm done with discussion about the water pump. Let's not beat a dead horse please. How do any of you know you don't have the SOHC water pump on your engine? Maybe it came with the wrong one stock from the factory and you didn't even know it! Maybe the dealer gave you the wrong one! Maybe aliens came down and put the wrong one on your engine while you were sleeping! See where I'm going with this? It's tiring.

Just for shits and giggles I'll say this again, the company makes a water pump for the SOHC and a different one for the DOHC, and the part number I have is the one for DOHC, not SOHC. Done deal. Also just for Dave, my fan is rated 1950 CFM which is higher than Fokion's and he doesn't have problems with his in Greece where he says it's pretty hot. Regarding your idea of putting the stock fan back on, here is something important to consider... NO electric fan will blow as many CFM as the stock clutch fan, however if the clutch fan is having to work to keep airflow over the engine WHILE AT SPEED, then there is definitely something wrong with the airflow across the radiator, as the fan should only be needed for going slow or stopped.

Ease up Nuke, the electric fan on the radiator can also block air flow, did you remove the stock pusher electric fan on the front of the radiator when you installed your new fan. If the electric fan is undersized it can impede air-flow especially at higher vehicle speeds.

The SOHC water pump has a sprocket with fewer teeth than the DOHC water pump that is why I ask about it. I purchased a water pump for my sport once and was sent the one for the SHOC.

At what temp does your Spal turn the fan on low and hi?

Yes I know, sorry, I need to ease up. OK deep breath lol.

Yeah good point, the electric fan can block more airflow than the stock clutch fan does, at speed. This is a good point and I'm surprised nobody has mentioned this sooner. Not a matter of the fan's CFM rating, but rather, the fan just getting in the way of faster airflow. The fan I'm using is 16". I didn't remove the pusher fan on the AC condenser (this is what you meant right?).

I want to try a test where I remove the electric fan altogether, and do a test drive to see if it runs cooler at speed. It's possible the electric restricts airflow too much when going fast. If this turns out to be a problem though, I'm not sure how to solve it other than going back to the clutch fan.

As for the temps, I have it set to turn on Low at 160, and High at 180. I have tried other settings or even having the fan on High all the time. Most of the road tests I did were with the fan locked in High mode the whole time.

I removed the OEM pusher fan on the front of the radiator because it seemed un-necessary. I did however mount my 16" ffan in the stock fan shroud because it did a better job of pulling air through the whole radiator and it kept the fan off the radiator. Did you hook up the A/C input to the Spal so that your fan runs on high whenever the A/C is turned on?

i was just trying to give you possibilities..gmb is an excellent company and we sell their w/p's at my work butwe have found catalog errors and people have gotten the wrong pump for their car from time to time and working in a parts store you hear a lot of screwed up stories of the last guy putting on the wrong parts and the new 1 not matching it...as for the temp gauge, no,i dont know the actual temp, just like you said i only know where my temp gauge normally sits and it still sits there in over 100 degree temps with a/c on @ freeway speeds, but i also dont have the front a/c cond fan, maybe it blocks some airflow...just trying to help, good luck to you i guess

Yep SPAL turns on high when AC is running.

nuke I have a crazy idea..

run the sport in your test run with no hood at all.. ( or lift the back end with spacers on the holding arms )

We are all taking of getting fresch air IN the engine bay trough the rad
BUT
no body have thought that in order the fresh one to get in, the hot that already is there has... to go!!!!!! ( making it like an air pocket )

if there is a protective metal plate underneeth it also blocks the air to leave

Just an idea and taking advantage the test equipment you have..