I have disassembled the timing belt area in order to change the water pump on my gold 4-door, Laura.

The PO had a shop do an engine swap/rebuild/f-up and many things were not replaced. I cut off an original PS belt. The AC belt was almost serviceable, but won't be reused. The alternator belt was missing 2 rows of bumpies and was about to shred. The timing belt had greasy finger prints, poor handling. However, all the intake manifold plenum and nearby bolts were barely finger tight. Never having been into a 3L before, please direct/advise me on what replacement parts should be renewed, aside from pulleys for the crank and cams as these look reasonable to me.

I shot some photos following disassembly and before clean up operations. The water pump appears to be missing hold down bolts and the AC crank pulley is damaged. Looks like the newer crank bolt??







What else??

pretty hard to tell but it does look like your missing 2 bolts for the WP. it also looks like it was glued on.

i would change the tensioner and idler (is there an idler on the SOHC?) pulley, crank pulley. i would also change the WP for good measure since youre in there and they are cheap enough.

the crank bolt doesnt look new but it does look like the same bolt used on my 3000gts and ive never seen one of those break.

The water pump is missing two bolts, yes. The water pump was leaking out the overflow hole, hence this tear down, and a new pump awaits. Based on receipts, the engine has about 30K miles on the rebuild. What is the replacement interval for the crank and cam pulleys? Trying to buy a house right now, ya' know...

locktite could have helped the assembler maybe?

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Are you also missing a couple of oil pump bolts?

Where is the oil coming from that's on the oil pump case? Crankshaft seal or cam seals? Is the pan leaking?

Ditto on the tensioner, but at least examine the spring carefully if you don't replace it.

The crankshaft sprocket and cam sprockets should never need replacement if they're not damaged. You do need a new harmonic balancer. I've used the cheapo aftermarket one with good results.

The rest of it depends on how far you want to go with the work. If it was running, perhaps the best thing is to fix what's evident and see how it goes.

Frank

I have a funny find myself. Took off the fuel pump to fix a leak during the weber swap. Found what I think is a valve adjuster, threaded piece with a slot for a flathead and two nuts. Took the valvecover off thinking something bad happened. They were all there, guessing they couldn't find the one they droped and just installed another.

It wouldn't be out of line for the oil pan bolts to be loose, based on other loose bolts found today. I'm going to treat this area to the brake cleaner blast, clean up the oil and let it sit a few days. The engine is facing the sun all day long.

OK, so a belt tensioner and some seals may be in order. It is dry on top...

I notice your lower timing belt cover is missing a chunk of plastic on the passenger-side bolt. I replaced my lower cover due to a similar break -- it was really nice to be able to see the timing mark on the pulley again!

Eric W.

That is not the stock crank bolt. It looks like the second update crank bolt. I will have to get my new bolt out to check.

I have just ordered some parts for my 3.0 V6 including the crank bolt and pulleys. I'll post in my thread when I collect today or tomorrow.

Mentioned thread here - http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showf...&an=0&page=0#Post1157548