You may have to split the timing belt crank pulley to get it off, and you have to get it off to replace the crank main seal. Most water pumps have one of the bolt holes stripped on the back half, and you have to tap it out to the next (7mm?) larger size, or buy both a new front and rear w/p halves. Most new water pumps are only the front half with the wear parts.

And, yes, this why I do my own work. Nobody gives more of a damn than me...

crank bolts posted on my thread - http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showf...&an=0&page=0#Post1157548

however I would appreciate Frank and FastEddy's input as I am now aware of 4 different crank bolts and don't know which one is the correct one.

Sorry for jacking the thread here.

Lucky you found all that before it became even more of a problem...

When I did the tear down on the 3.5 DOHC engine on my old SR, I had a reciept from the shop the PO left in the glove compartment spending several thousand for the head/waterpump install, and When I got to it, one of the water pump bolts had not been tightened down and backed out to chew at least 1/4" off the timing belt. The mechanic could have at least used an ash tray instead of the top of the engine block too. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

Russell,
I'm pretty sure I have a 3.0 crank pulley and bolt that are surplus to my needs if you need them. If that's a Gen I V6, the crank bolt is much longer. PM me for details.

Wrong. The old bolts were longer. Frank's correct. The shorter one on the right is the correct one. They're cheap enough from the dealer, I always keep a spare.

x2 <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Jim,

Thanks for the pulley offer, but I do have a spare on a 'thrown rod' engine. I have three other pulley bolts, too (1 long, 2 short).

Russell

Ageed , that is not the 1st or 2nd bolt , or the third . You have a the grade 9 Chrysler bolt.
I'm gonna use that bolt on the next and frequent front seal replacement job.
I'm really afraid of using "Chinese Metal". Even KOYO stuff is NOW made in China. The new bolt on mine , the 1101100A or somethin' was probably made in China. Different light colored metal with red staining. The old Chry. bolt has the gold staning or whatever and It's good steel. The more you use the bolt the stronger it gets...
I got the bolt on the ground under a caravan,,,it's setting there on the desk axnious to go to work.
And for all of you tired of hearing me complain about Chinese stuff , I don't hate Chinese people , just the commy government that killed our troops in Korea and elsewhere. I hate the Treasonous Corporations that sent our jobs away.
I've had mutiple C metal failure. From shatted drill bits,,, A vise that cracked in half when I turned the mounting screw with my fingers...and most recently a bunch of lag screws while putting a new beam under my collapsing shack. I buy used USA made lag screws at Habitat for Humanities "Restore" now.
Chech you block for the oil filter hole. You might have a Chrsler block.

I use the pulley bolt which is longer. bought it brand new from mitsubishiparts.net it was the revised bolt from the super thick one. I prefer using the ones CAPS pulls up for them and not a short diamante crank bolt. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

How come? The Dia/Chry/3rd bolt and the long revised bolt all have the same ammount of threads in contact with the hole in the crank , uses the same ammount of torque.
I have the revised bolt, don't see any difference than I have to use my deep socket.