I read on Yotatech about a guy having problems with his extended breather so he switched it back to the stock version. I think he said something about the length of the hose not being able to equalize the pressure....?

Is someone else having these similar problems? How long should the hose be?

no probs here

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by Golden Dragon:
<strong>I read on Yotatech about a guy having problems with his extended breather so he switched it back to the stock version. I think he said something about the length of the hose not being able to equalize the pressure....?

Is someone else having these similar problems? How long should the hose be?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">sounds like BS to me. mine work fine.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by Golden Dragon:
<strong>I read on Yotatech about a guy having problems with his extended breather so he switched it back to the stock version. I think he said something about the length of the hose not being able to equalize the pressure....?

Is someone else having these similar problems? How long should the hose be?</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Lenght is not an issue, but what will cause problems is if there are any dips in the line as it runs. Oil mist will condense until the oil plugs the tube. Will be OK when warm, but in cold weather 90W is pretty thick and it'll allow pressure to rise in the axle and possibly force oil past the seals. I had this problem on my '85 4Runner, lots two axle and one pinion seal before re-routing the line to run upwards all the way to the vent. One vent in front and one vent in back was my fix.

Diff breather info

Wow, that's much better advice than my "It has to be 4.62 feet long to be the proper resonance to the axle housing." That's for on key in C.

Check out this site:
http://www.yotatech.com/showthread....amp;threadid=2153&highlight=extended

The lines get clogged because they aren't run in an upward slope. If there are any dips in the line oil WILL pool there and plug the line. If you run the rear axle line to the front of the vehicle, it'll be very hard to avoid having a dip in the line. Run to the rear and always upward and you won't have a problem. Mine has been fine since I re-routed the rear hose about 4 years ago.

Ok Thanks for the tip

You basically want to make sure that if any oil collects in the line, it'll drain back into the diff. Run a filter on the end of the hose to allow it to breath (vs. running the stock breather on the end). This lets air out and into the axle to keep the pressure equal inside and outside the axle.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Originally posted by 4Crawler:
<strong>The lines get clogged because they aren't run in an upward slope. If there are any dips in the line oil WILL pool there and plug the line. If you run the rear axle line to the front of the vehicle, it'll be very hard to avoid having a dip in the line. Run to the rear and always upward and you won't have a problem. Mine has been fine since I re-routed the rear hose about 4 years ago.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Tahoma, Arial, Helv, Helvetica, Sans">Hmm...that's probably what happened to mine, especially since I used window washer tube which had a too small ID. But since I shortened it and re-routed it, it seems to be fine.

Steve