Clarification, Heavy duty rotors, and drums, and the softer, typically cheaper pads and shoes. Still all my local parts house parts, but when I saw a noticeable difference in thickness of the rotors, between the cheap and heavy duty stock replacement parts for my 79 F150, there was no way I was running the cheap rotors on a lifted truck with 35's. I want my vehicles to stop, and I don't want warped rotors. Again, matching the parts to the system they are working in.

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Sean

Ok you get a passing grade.. how bout an "A".. Since I install cheap new rotors instead of turning the old ones, that would be my only small differ from your installation.
With them 35's, you do need all the help you an get.
Big JIm

I have always questioned the point of turning rather than new...

Personally, I will go to what ever advantage I can get with HD pads before the ultimate of a larger brake cylinder,

But, what is there determining point as to heat damage to the rotor?

As the brake system appears to be the "fail-safe" point, where do you continue to add performance mods and neglect potential safety issues?

John HD pads are harder than the cheap soft ones we are talking about. The HD ones are great after they heat up, such as a paved race track where the brakes are used over and over for hours. However the very first use of the pads when they are "cold" doesn't have the stopping power that offroaders might need.

So Sean and I are talking about the cheap ones that wear out quicker and need replaced more often, but stop the Jeep better, particularly if it has tall tires on it.

Around here I can do the front of a Jeep for bout $125. Or maybe a bit less...all new parts with warranty. So I just throw the used parts away or trade them in and go new every time.

Big JIm <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />