First let me say I still cannot figure out how to search for old post on this site!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" /> Need some insight from the pros on here. I'm working on the front brakes and wheel bearings on my '94 4x4 Yota. I got the whole assembly apart and after taking a look at the bearings and races I'm on the fence if they need replacing. No pitting on either the bearings or races, but the races show some, well they look very lightly scratched, no groves though. Bearings show some of the same, but much, much lighter, then the races show. The inside of all the bearings all have to some degree a discoloration/wear as well as the spindle itself. The grease on the right was looking pretty old and the left seemed like there should have been more. Service on the bearings is a bit overdue, so I'm thinking the safe thing is to replace the bearings, but I'm not sure. What do you all think? What should I do about the discoloration on the spindle? Rear seals looked great, cleaned up real well, planning on re-using.

Oh on reassembling should I put some grease in the void between the inner and outer seal? If so how much is enough? Don't want to over do it. And the locking hub assembly looks to have some type of grease applied there, but my Hanes manual doesn't mention re-greasing it. Any thoughts?

Thanks a ton <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Wow, don't all jump up at once!!!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> Well I've figured out the majority of my first issues with exception to the grease in the locking hubs. So I decided to go a bit further with the front end work and replace both upper and lower ball joints. I'm thinking this was a mistake. Can't get the lower ball joint to budge, even with the proper tools. So here I thought I would loosen the upper ball joint and while manipulating the spindle the whole thing dropped and the inner CV boot popped off!! Looks easy enough to put back in, but I'm hoping the CV boot can be slid back in place and stay snug. First though I've got to get these damn ball joints to move. Anyone have any tips here. Please.......anyone.......any ideas....................?

First here is a link to the Toyota FSM (Factory Service Manual):

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

Do not re-use the wheel bearing seals.

The wheel bearings sound iffy, I would replace.

Pack the bearings and hub according to the FSM.

Are you trying to get the BJ's loose from the spindle?

What is the "proper tool" that you are using? You either need a puller or it can also be done with two big hammers, a pickle fork will work but in my opinion they are a PITA.

As far as the half shaft, the boot may or may not stay on, it should have a clamp holding it on.

Two hammer method of removing TRE's and BJ's.

Thanks for the link, tried this, but my system is having problems with Adobe and the manual is all PDF. Thanks for the heads up on the seals, thought I read somewhere that if they're removed safely they are okay to re-use. I'll price a new set. I'm gonna roll the dice and re-use the bearings. Did a bunch of research on this and they're gonna have to do for now. Because of the FSM issue I still don't know what if anything needs to be done in regards to greasing the locking hubs. Balljoints were an absolute PITA. Used a puller first and when I was sure that it was going to fly off and impale me due to the outragous amount of force on it I decided it wasn't going to work. I ended up just using a bigger hammer and some creative prying. After I figured out the left side the right was a breeze. That clamp on the boot of the half shaft is making it really hard to put it back on. I'm thinking that I'm gonna have to remove the clamp, reposition the boot and then put a new clamp on. Does that sound right or has anyone been able to reposition the boot without having to replace the clamp?
BTW I tried the two hammer deal, but these damn ball joints weren't having it! For several minutes there I thought I wasn't ever gonna get those damn things off!! OOP'S thanks for your reply. I know this stuff is real basic, but you guys know all the tricks and tips.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/front_end/

Might help. Locking hubs are LIGHTLY greased; you do not pack them. I haven't had to mess with the boots on the CV axles for this job.

Uninstall your Adobe program, then go to their website and download the free Acrobat Reader and see how it works for ya.

I didn't plan on messing with the CV's either, but I screwed up and popped the inner CV boot off. The Adobe issue is tied to a registry error and I'm just not in the mood to tackle it. Thanks for the link that was a ton of help. Do you prefer a certian type of grease for the hub? Would the wheel bearing grease by overkill?

Down there you guys don't get real cold (I grew up in Idaho County); I'd use the red bearing grease on them down there.

For up here, I use Chevron's Arctic Grease; black, real buttery. I've also used it for the needle bearings (or the copper bushing) in the spindle, depending on which rig I'm fooling with.

I'll give the wheel hub a light coat then. So I've done a bit of leg work on the computer and I'm finding that there may not be anyway to reposition the inner CV boot without removing the clamp that is already there. I guess there is a specific tool that is used to crimp a new clamp on. If anyone has any ideas on how I can avoid removing the old clamp it will be appreciated. Thx

Once the clamp is pushed off the flange it's just about impossible to get it back on as the rubber is compressed when it's banded on originally. I had it happen on a nissan axle way back and I stupidly ended up ruining the boot in my attempts at trying to get it back on. You need to find some place that has the tool to put a new band on. If you know anyone with a 'gun' for putting on/tensioning plastic tie wraps, you could put a heavy nylon tie wrap on there to get by temporarily (very temporarily), just to keep the water/crap out of the joint 'til you hook up with the correct metal wrap/tool.

After dickin around with it for a bit after it happened I came to the conclusion that I was not going to be able to make it work. I called around today and found a replacement band from Autozone. Funny thing, I called the local Toyota dealership and asked about the factory style clamped band and he said their techs had gone to the fold over style for its ease of use. I decided that buying yet another tool for a job that shouldn't have needed it in the first place was too much. So I'm gonna just go with the folding style and watch it real close to make sure it holds.