As I recall Capt.Crunch used 2 shims on his Gen 2 UCA installation into his 2.6 SWB with long shackles on a leaf spring rear. Also in case you haven't notice the Gen 2 arms have a thick side and thin side where the Gen 1s are the same both sides. He didn't crank his bars enough to level it out. I don't think you can crank them far enough to level out on a SWB OME coil or Gen 2 coil setups.

The Question is for me ::::

????????just how far should I crank them and what's the best way to measure from other than from the fenders (like Phil did in his writeup on the Mitsu Page) ,,, to get both Tortion Bars set the same tension????????

I trimmed the bumpstops and measured the bolt shank above the nut on the torsion bar adjustment bolts as called for int he FSM. On trimming the bumpstops, I used a sharp wood chisel and slowly worked my way through the midsection of the bumpstop trimming about half of it away. Mine is leveled front and rear. HTH

Thanks, yes I see that now in the FSM on the bolt measurement. The "right place" to measure.
But I can't use the length data here because that is the stock setting on a new vehicle.
Also with old probably sagging bars I wonder if the bolt measurement would still be accurate for equalising the 2 bars.
So ,,,your bars are not cranked beyond stock setting???
Then- I still need to now how far to crank them.

I'd be afraid to crank them all the way level. I don't think anybody else on here has gone that far. Maybe too much will damage the bars. Maybe you couldn't get it aligned pro enough for a D.D.
Also I was just reading on here about a Gen 2.5 "rear end too high" and the front has to sit a little lower for
the " ?????da da da???"I'm drawing a blank what it's called...

Dave, if you need more height, re-index them in the LCA's and then crank them. That's what I did. Then I just took it to my alignment man and asked him to level it side-to-side and front-to-rear, set camber to zero and then do the rest of the alignment.

Dave, mine are cranked well above the stock setting. I was only posting to let you know where to take "leveling measurements" I don't know what the "right" answer is for how far to crank them. I trimmed my bumpstops because they wouldn't allow me to crank them far enough to level my truck.

Hazy gives good advice...I didn't go that far. I also had my camber "zeroed" when the alignment was done.

HTH

I'm getting ready to do this on my Raider. 2 questions.
1. do alignment shops do the re-indexing or is that something I must do before hand (haven't indexed before)
2. will the shop know to set camber to 0 or do i have to tell them?

1. Either you or them. You're cheaper than they are, but if you gots moneys to burn knock yourself out. To accomplish re-indexing, relieve them to full droop then pull them out of the LCA's and turn them a couple teeth and reverse istall. Don't recall which way to turn them, but if you look at what you're doing, just use common sense.

2. Tell them to set camber to zero. They only have the specs that are in the machine. Unless you got a really old guy who knows what he's doing. In that case he'll know and it's probably best to not insult him. Unless you like doing u-turns without your consent.....

Got the arms on.
When I pry on the L. ball joint with the pickle fork I see alitte movement, so I guess I'll do the best adjustment I can untill I can get the L.B.J.s replaced , then I'll pay for a proper alignment. With the Gas prices now I'm not going to be able to get out of the county anyway.

compress the ball joint with a big pair of channelocks and measure height of stud. take the pliers off and measure again. with un-knuckled bj, wear over 1mm means replace. .5-1mm means replace this year. Lower can get away with more slack since it's weight bearing. also wears faster.

Thanks I'll do that...
Today I'll get back on itl. I'll see how far I can crank the bars up before I decide to reindex or not.
I have some L B Js from an ebay,,Chassis 1 , fraid to use them