That's my site. Thanks!:) I drive the black '97 SAS'd Sport on there. Unfortunately, I'm only working on mine and my X's anymore. My partner and I run another company and it's gotten to the point in the last couple years that it's taking all my resources. It doesn't help that the market for aftermarket Sport stuff has dwindled to almost nothing in the last couple years. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

Some things to consider that I forgot to mention...

A CAT-back system in NO LARGER than 2.25" pipe with a good muffler. Anything larger than 2.25" will move the torque band further up the RPM range - something you especially do not want to do with the 5-speed. I like the stainless Flowmaster mufflers for a couple reasons. They're durable and stand up to off road abuse well. They also last well on the street where there's a lot of salt and/or deicer use during the winter months. And, they're skinny (unlike the 55 gallon drum stock muffler) so you can have it tucked up well away from the ground.

Remove the air filter box and feed pipe and replacing them with an air pipe and K&N. Ingen makes a good intake setup but it's somewhat expensive. Any Autozone, Checkers or Advanced Autoparts type store will have a 'universal' pipe (and fittings) with the correct dimensions that'll fit with minor modifications and the K&N FIPK kit for the 3000GT will bolt directly to the stock MAF. There are arguments for not using the 'K&N' type gauze/screen filters; most are posted by people in extremely fine dust prone areas like SoCal, AZ and NM. I don't live there so I can't argue one way or another. I can say that if they're properly oiled I've never had any issues either in CO or UT and I've been running a K&N since my Sport was purchased new. You do need to apply a little more oil than the K&N directions say, though, and I usually spritz mine a little every six months or so; the oil will wick out into the surrounding dirt.

Anyway, these two will give you a decent power boost and a mile or two increase in gas millage.

Replace EVERYTHING with full synthetics. Engine oil, transmission, transfer case and differentials. I use Amsoil in everything except the engine and that gets Mobile 1 10-40. I was running Red Line in my diffs - good oil - but that stuff turns into glue in the winter here in CO. I can't imagine using it in Canada. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" /> This'll also help improve gas millage, but more importantly it'll cut WAY down on wear.

I'd also recommend greasing everything with full synthetic moly grease. I use Valvoline - mostly because it's the only brand easily found here for some strange reason - and it seems to work well. I mention this because in extremely cold temperatures seals tend to not 'seal' so well. Also, 'wheeling tends to get water into things that normal usage wouldn't. Synthetics don't break down and lose their ability to lubricate like normal grease does when water is introduced.

I had a front hub seal go south four years ago and drove it for a few thousand miles in the dead of summer. When I pulled the hub about a cup of water drained out. Nothing was damaged. The bearings and races still looked like new. The grease wasn't even discolored let alone breaking down. I cleaned everything up, stuck a new seal in, put it back together and it's been going ever since.

Edward