Just put the clutch housing back on, fun fun stuff.

Cleaned and razored off the mating surface of the housing.
[Linked Image]

And the transmission.
[Linked Image]

Carb cleaner and clean red shop rags were used for this.

New pilot shaft seal.
[Linked Image]

Sitting on it's bore.
[Linked Image]

Shaft wrapped in electrical tape, from the rear up, covering splines. If you don't do this the seal will tear on the splines, and you're out 8 bucks or so.
I took this before I oiled it up with gear lube.
[Linked Image]

Seal pressed in and housing covered in sealant.
[Linked Image]

Torqued down, 86 lb/ft. the bolts are 19mm 12 point, but 3/4 will work in a pinch.
clutch fork and throwout bearing installed as well.
[Linked Image]

New clutch fork boot.
[Linked Image]

Adapter plate and starter bolted on for yet another test fit.
[Linked Image]
Side shot.
[Linked Image]

Today might bring a test fit in the tunnel to make sure everything still fits with the adapter plate, all depends on if the trans jack feels like working....

I also need to repair the 4wd sensors, when I dropped the trans I inadvertently caught the wires and ripped them up a bit... If I can't fix them I'll either suffer without indication lights or drop $65 on a new set of sensors...

Just bought the t-case cushion mount, that was $31 shipped from Mitsparts.com
Couldn't have done it without this 4x4wire tech article that gave the part number, ASA and CAPS didn't have squat on it...

I've decided on going with a custom oil pan, you can follow the thread more over at STD

Off to measure a Mitsubishi oilpan by moonlight! :mrgreen:


1989 Dodge Power Ram 50 w/ no engine <- rotten frame <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />
1988 Power Ram 50 2.6 Long Bed
1990 Mitsubishi MightyMax V6, swapping to the Daimler-Benz OM617 3.0L I5 diesel