The dowels are shouldered on the back(engine) side, originally so I could easily hold onto them and slip them in when the trans lined up. They're 16mm on the part that's in the plate and fits in the trans, and the shoulder is 1" because that was the stock size.

They function just like their counterparts on the 6G72 block, to align the tranny and engine, or adapter plate in this case.

Just put the clutch housing back on, fun fun stuff.

Cleaned and razored off the mating surface of the housing.


And the transmission.


Carb cleaner and clean red shop rags were used for this.

New pilot shaft seal.


Sitting on it's bore.


Shaft wrapped in electrical tape, from the rear up, covering splines. If you don't do this the seal will tear on the splines, and you're out 8 bucks or so.
I took this before I oiled it up with gear lube.


Seal pressed in and housing covered in sealant.


Torqued down, 86 lb/ft. the bolts are 19mm 12 point, but 3/4 will work in a pinch.
clutch fork and throwout bearing installed as well.


New clutch fork boot.


Adapter plate and starter bolted on for yet another test fit.

Side shot.


Today might bring a test fit in the tunnel to make sure everything still fits with the adapter plate, all depends on if the trans jack feels like working....

I also need to repair the 4wd sensors, when I dropped the trans I inadvertently caught the wires and ripped them up a bit... If I can't fix them I'll either suffer without indication lights or drop $65 on a new set of sensors...

Just bought the t-case cushion mount, that was $31 shipped from Mitsparts.com
Couldn't have done it without this 4x4wire tech article that gave the part number, ASA and CAPS didn't have squat on it...

I've decided on going with a custom oil pan, you can follow the thread more over at STD

Off to measure a Mitsubishi oilpan by moonlight! :mrgreen:

It's not the 8 Bucks that gets me, It is the fact that the vehicle is together and driving before you know you need to go back in to replace the seal.

I may have a spare set of sensors. I think I replaced mine when I did my overhaul. My VIN is JA4GJ31S3MJ013185 so you can check to see if they're the same as what you need. PM me if they are and you need them.

True, never did think of that...

Trans is in temporarily for some free space measurements, love having a lift and a trans jack!

Looks like it's either move the trans back 4 inches and make new driveshafts ($$$), or remote mount the radiator, A/C condensor and an oil cooler(pain in the ass and lost bed space)...

That's what you get when you forget to measure before hand and then rationalize and assume it's all the same...

Thoughts?

Last I checked, shortening the OE driveshaft was 2-3 benjamins via South Bay Driveline here in San Jose.

Thanks for the pointer, sadly I'm stuck in CNY, and on a shoestring budget right now. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

I'm going to be measuring up the shafts on my rusted out 4banger to see if I can use them instead, baring that it'll be an engine test fit with the trans out to see what other gremlins this thing has in store for me...

I'll figure something out, I always do! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I'd start calling around to the various driveline shops. What you don't have in your favor is the import driveline which all the small shops claim they do not have the proper size tools to work on.

I got extremely lucky on my Isuzu Pickup which had spicer u-joints. I paid $75 locally to have it retubed and a new spicer end installed on the driveshaft since the shop only does american driveshafts. He only quoted me $200 to change it to a one piece design when I eliminate the Slip Yoke on my truck with the new transmission/transfer case setup as long as I supply the slip joint. I'm hoping he's still in business in another year. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/zombie.gif" alt="" />

There are many different length propshafts with all the variations of pickups, Monteros and Sports between auto and manuals and the fancy transfer case in the SR. The service manual list the length of each combination. You might find a shaft in the ballpark of what you need at least for the rear. The front shaft shares its dimensions with most of the passenger cars as well.