You had a great idea by making these local to the North American market. I see what the spacer does.

It keeps the balljoint stud centered in it's cup to allow full range of motion after a t-bar crank. If you just crank the t-bar for max lift you now have the ball joint stud cocked off to one side and when a person cuts the droopstop it could cause the balljoint to overtravel. Further complication as well as the camber issue.

I for one think cranking the t-bars for 2" of lift is kiind of like putting lipstick on a pig...in the end it's still a pig. You gain no performance improvement in the suspension geometry by cranking, limit the up travel due to higher preload, not as much down travel, it's harder on all the steering, cv's and balljoints. About the only thing I would say is good about it is the extra ground clearance and fitting larger tires. I cranked my for 1/2" to reduce sag, restore factory geometry and which has no effect on any of these above mentioned items. It gave me room for 33x10.5's because mine has the factory 30mm body lift.

Just my friendly 2 cents worth <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />