So I've had these upper ball joint spacers from plh for about a year and finally had a couple of hours to fit them this morning.

My preferred method for popping out the upper ball joints. A few decisive simultaneous blows works every time. Remember to loosen the upper ball joint nut and support the LCA.

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Ball joint removed. Of course you must first take the dust boot off to get the ball joint through the hole in the UCA.

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Ball joint and spacer

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Installed

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Difference in distance between UCA and spindle

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That's one thing I liked about this mod as my bump stops are trimmed a lot.

Comparison of the LCA angle with one side done. Ball joint flipped and spacer installed on the d/s. p/s has upper ball joint in the stock position. The difference was significant. The hub dropped 30mm.

[img]http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/6485/dsc09309o.jpg[/img]





















However, all this was in vain <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

[img]http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/6628/dsc09316zc.jpg[/img]

There is no way of correcting that much positive camber! Not even close. Unless I'm missing something this mod will not work. I guess it may without a t-bar crank, but I have my t-bars cranked to match the 50mm coils spacers in the rear. So the different angles between the LCA and UCA mean the camber is extreme.

I removed the spacers and thought about just doing a ball joint flip, but I just didn't like the way the ball joint sat. I put the upper ball joints back to the stock position. A good few hours work...

Bummer <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />


'97 Montero 'LSR' - 4.6 gears & factory rear locker, 33" Procomp muds on 15x8 steelies, 50mm coil spacers, T-bar crank, Airlift, sans rear sway, 50mm rear frame & fuel tank lift, Aisins, ARB front bumper + 10k lb winch, 50mm DIY body lift, rock sliders, cut rear quarter panels...