I'd put a new balancer on and see what that does....

why hasn't anyone suggested a new HB? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif" alt="" />

Seriously though, I hope you get this sorted and if the dealership needs to take responsibility for something they did, then I recall a post a few years back discussing how to go about involving Mitsubishi directly in situations like this. May or may not help the situation. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

HEy now I don't want to sound like an <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" /> but I think this is YOUR FAULT you chose to drive the truck here from PA after the check engine light came on and said "HEY SOMETHINGS WRONG WITH ME" maybe if you would have taken the time to stop at a auto parts store and check the codes then you wouldn't be out a motor. We all make mistakes man sure the dealer mechanic did overlooked that coil pack connector but you put on a blindfold and drove it across the country when you knew something was wrong. Sucks man, I do stupid stuff all the time and it always bites me back and i really would like to point the finger at someone but in reality it was all me.

So all that aside either do it your self and get a little dirty there are plenty of people on this board that can help walk you thru it, or go to a little guys shop and have him slap some bearings in it for half the cost of dealer. Heck man it could be a bad sensor too, If any thing just say F-It and buy a low mileage JDM engine and slap it in there. Plenty of options for you. But your just gonna have to eat the cost man your just as much at fault as that dealer is dude. sorry <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

random miss is caused by a variation of the engine speed and picked up by the crank and cam sensors.

a loose reluctor wheel could cause a random miss code to be set. this is whuy i said tear it down and inspect them....especially if its otherwise running fine. we still havent been told if its running good and is quiet.

from my understanding at this point it runs normal, is quiet, and sets a ghost P0300.


basically the fixes for the few P0300s that have been posted to websites havent been common. 2 loose trigger wheels, igntion system 3 times (wires, plugs, VC gaskets), fuel system a couple times.

Bottom line is, I find it very hard to believe that it was just a coincidence that all these problems "just happened" to develop less than 2k miles after the service.

In the long run, I think he would have gotten more miles out of that engine if he never replaced the timing belt at all.

Just goes to show that sometimes, doing the right thing and being proactive with maintenance doesn't pay off.

What you need to do is pull every thing apart. I have seen before where a tech will not get the crank sprocket all the way tight and the trigger wheels moves around. I have also seen where they pry on the crank sprocket to get it off and end up bending the trigger wheel. They also could have cracked the crank sensor for over tightening. If for some reason the tech pulled the whole sensor off if he did not get it routed the way the wires go then the tbelt will rub on it.


DTC P0300
Random misfire detected. Possible causes are: connector or
harness, faulty ignition coil, ignition power transistor, spark plug,
ignition circuit, injector, HO2S, compression pressure, timing belt,
air intake system, fuel pressure, or CKP sensor.

The ecu also must see these conditions to check for a misfire
300+ seconds of steady state RPM less than 80% throttle position
À Engine coolant temperature -10C or higher
À Intake air temperature -10C or higher
À Barometric pressure greater than 76 kPa



So they have the pan off and showed you the bearings confirming the bearing are shot?

very good information, I thank you for your input.

I think we may have the tech check the sprockets, trigger wheels, sensors, and sensor wires.

The tech did say he hears a knock from within the engine, that is why he feels there is internal damage, but we will check the items you listed before replacing an engine.

anyone else have any other possible causes that would trigger 'random misfire' code?

Since you have established that you had the ballancer replaced, did you personally inspect the old one for damage?

The tech says he hears a knock from within the engine. What do YOU hear?

A multitude of things could cause misfire. Fouled plug, Plug not tightened in head, Loose ignition wires, bad coil packs. Check the easy stuff first to elimate possibilities. Then move to the hard stuff like the crank angle sensor, cam sensor. At the same time you have the front apart you can check to ensure the belt was intalled properly and is not a tooth off of time.

1: As Justice suggested , look at the easy stuff.
2: Do an oil annlysis at Blackstone labs. For $20 you will know if there is internal damage, nothing to pull apart, a deal for the cost.
3: As pointed out an improperly installed damper could be the problem and if the crank is damaged, could be the source of the noise.

Do you still ahve the old damper? I would be curious to see how it failed. Did the rubber seperate or did it come loose from the crankshaft?

Kevin