Why not an Atlas2

Has anyone added up what it costs to install t cases that are less in quality than an atlas?

D300, beefed up (4.0:1, 32 spline outputs, flipped?) $2000+
Atlas 4.3 with adapter to most GM automatics...$2600 with all the goodies.

231, 4.0:1, SYE...no ability to clock...$1500+


These swaps should take into account doing stuff right, not just the cheapest (even though cheap it ain't) dirtiest digging through wrecking yards methods. Look at bigger pictures...an atlas will outlast the rest of the rig and can be sold or moved to other rigs for years...

SD

A dana 300 is almost as strong as an Atlas and has been proven time and time again. The cost is alot less. You don't have to clock it if you run the correct axles. You don't have to adapt it to a tranny if you go with a tranny that it came behind, but if you do adapt it the adapters don't cost alot ($175) and you can gear it if needed, when needed and when the money is there.

I can get a dana 300 for $250 any day. Cost me $175 to put it in my jeep. I can run it till I have $700 to regear it. When will I ever have $2500 at one time for an atlas?

<img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

The economics of jeep modifications are very fluid and very dependent on region.

If you do your own mechanical work, the cost of installation is different than some one that needs to avail themselves of local labor rates.

After more that a few mods to achieve the same result, I agree with SuperDawg in one key area.

Plan your modifications to durability and consider them as a future investment.

I guarantee that I have an investment in my jeep running gear (NV 4500 and NP 241C) that will be transferred to my next jeep. I obtained the Rubicon 4:1 t-case significantly cheaper than a local D-300 or an Atlas.

My original choice was an Atlas; however, circumstances happened that I was able to acquire a comparable part for significant savings. However, it did provide some install issues that increased the cost. Well, they also strengthened week spots.

However, if the goal is to do it "right" the first time, the Atlas swap is logical for the more than average 4-wheeler.

If you can do better, great. That is the challenge and pride of owning a jeep. It can be customized to what you can afford.

Let me throw a bit of my ignorance out here. What do you mean by clocking a T-case?

I agree.

It all comes down to how much money is in your pocket and what modifications you can do your self.

That is re-aligning the t-case by rotating it on its mounting bolts with the intent of providing more ground clearance.

The spacing and shape of the D-300 allow that type of action.

Depending on the type of terrain a person tends to wheel in I would say that the average wheeler wouldn't need any lower gearing in their t-case than what the D300's 2.61:1 low gear has to offer (jeep 231 is 2.71:1). IF one would need lower gearing why limit oneself to a 2-speed atlas (4.3:1 and 1.0:1), when you can add a 231 doubler and have an 3 usable speed t-case assembly (7.1:1, 2.72 or 2.61:1 and 1.0:1) that one could wheel in everything from high speed deep sand at the beach to technical rock crawling. That way the rig is not too low geared for the high speed stuff and not to highly geared for the low speed stuff. This can be accomplished generously for around $1500 with a rebuild for the D300 and 32-spline outputs for the D300, the 231 doubler kit, cost of a D300 and of course your existing 231 case. Plus this combo is within 1-inch of the stock 231 case in length... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Fred R.

Thanks! New one to me.

Hey Fred, my 'puter isn't working right with this forum so I couldn't quote the bits I wanted to, but please explain a bit more about the doubler. Is that similar to a Klune doubler? Or is it a re-make of what's in the NP231/ or d300 (couldn't figure out which or if it's part of both) to add a doubler. For me 1:1 is great for sand, 2.72(stock NP231) is great for most trails, but I'd really like 4:1 or lower for some of the crawling if I could do it w/ only 1" taken from the drive shaft length. I can't handle much more angle in the drive line w/ out rebuilding it again to accommodate.
Thanks,
- C

Yeah it's pretty much the same as a Klune-V doubler as it uses a 231 Planetary to offer the reduction but doesn't have the heafty $1500 price tag <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" /> it runs about $500 for the kit and whatever other costs associate with a D300 rebuild (probably needed on a 25-30 year old t-case) and other misc costs like shifters for the D300 and what not. Below is a link with a basic explanation of a 231 Doubler, there are two kits on the market that I know of but the link below is for the more complete kit. A 231/D300 doubler is within about an inch or so as the stock length of a 231 being that the D300 is significantly shorter than the 231. You could do a 231/231 doubler but that's really not as appealing because that combo would add around 7 inches to the overall assembly plus you would be putting DOUBLE the reduction on the second 231 and the fact that it's a chain driven t-case it probably wouldn't last that long. Let me know if you have any other questions but the link below is pretty self explanatory, hope this helps <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

231 DOUBLER

Fred R.