When I turn the key the t100 cranks over like 5-8 times before it starts. The battery is a Die Hard Gold and seems to be fine according to the charger. If the radio is in the on position and if i have the heater in the on position before i turn the key the truck almost doesn't want to start at all.

Is there a way I could test the starter or Solenoid? I read a lot of posts about hard starting which involved the motor not getting enough gas could this be a possibility?

How old is the battery and what group size is it (should be 24F or a 34R or similar). If its more than 3-5 years old I would replace it anyways.

Most batteries never see the end of the 4th year regardless of brand.

Quick and dirty troubleshooting check: hook up with jumper cables. Better = battery problem. Same = look elsewhere.

Have you checked obvious cable connections for tightness, corrosion, etc? Don't forget the ground to frame and hot to starter ends.

Most times you can tell by sound if it is cranking at proper RPMs but if voltage is weak your spark will suffer and cold temps won't help anything.

If you're not getting enough fuel, then your injectors or CS injector are bleeding off pressure from the rail. This is common in a 22RE of the old Toys.

Sounds like your starter contacts could be worn.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/starter/

Post up some piccies of the engine bay.

Pull the battery and have it tested at AutoZone. I'd be curious on the condition of that battery as well. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

jmoser-

I have another post about the engine vibrating or making noise when in drive or reverse, it goes away if i turn off the lights and radio or if i lightly press the gas to bring up the rpms. Do you think all of this has to do with the truck not getting enough voltage from the battery? I will try the jump start test tmw.

I believe its a 34r I will check it tmw morning. I dont know how old it is because it was in the truck already when i bought it a few months ago. I couldnt find a date on the battery anywhere or anything that would indicate when it was changed. I think im just going to pull it out and get it tested tmw and go from there

If the engine isn't getting gas, or it's lost pressure, the engine will crank over very briskly, and eventually start. It will catch gradually as fuel pressure is built up, run roughly and then smooth out. That doesn't seem to be what you're describing.

If the battery is weak, the engine will crank over slowly. Eventually, as the battery rapidly weakens further, it will stop cranking the engine over and you will here only the solenoid clattering.

The gauge on a battery charger does not load test the battery. It just tests for voltage. You can get 12 volts from a few flashlight batteries, but they won't crank your engine over. You need a load tester to check the cranking power of the battery (they are cheap and are a good tool to have). I strongly suspect your battery will fail the load test.

And yes, a weak battery can make the engine idle rough. The alternator has to work harder, with pulls on the engine more, dragging the idle down.

It was the battery, i took it out of the truck and it was from 2003 haha. It also rated with less cold cranking amps than the stock battery and it failed the load test at autozone. I got an interstate MTP-24F and it starts very strong now. I think its possible that the starter contacts need some attention because the starter still cranks like 6-8times but it cranks so fast now it only takes a second or two to start. Its so much nicer now.

thanks guys

Next you may want to put in a new fuel filter if you still have the original; that is the quickest and cheapest way to fix plugged up fuel flow. If not that then fuel pump and/or injectors are much more $$$.

May be obvious but sometimes new spark plugs work wonders; a new crossover wire set may be in order too if never replaced yet. Stay with factory parts for the plug wires.