Cmon now, DrZ, 4-5" of lift? I have 2" of bodylift and some 2" shackles with flat <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/butwiggle.gif" alt="" /> springs and fit some 35's. If my springs bweren't so flat I dunno if I would of needed the shackles. I totally agree about not using OD though. I turned mine off for around town driving.

2+2=4 <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/pfft.gif" alt="" />
I think the springs come nearly flat from the factory too...mine are the same way
Heck 2" lift fits 35s...with lots of trimming

OP:
2" bodylift(for ease of install) and a 1-1.5" torsion bar crank should be good. Thats if you don't feel like fixing the tranny of course...but think of it this way, you have 35s on it now <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" />

IMO i don't think the tranny is broken, something else...the auto aren't too commonly broken

Yes and yes.

To be sure the OD won't work if the OD solenoid is not energized. The fastest way to check is verify power at the solenoid. I would also test the solenoid for continutity, the manual shows it has having 13 ohms resistance to ground.

The OD control system is the most common failure. A bad solenoid is easily changed. It's held on with two bolts and has two O rings under it. Trying another one is a low cost test.

Two other posibilities.

1: The Valve body.

2: The OD clutch has a bad seal or a bad clutches.

The valve body is easy to service in the vehicle. Most internal failures will be from bad seal that then kills the clutch pack. On the units I have rebuilt the OD always seemed to be in the best condition.

Kevin

The valve body bolts were a little loose on mine when I serviced. Think Justice's were too. That could cause some harky malarky shifting...

Good point on the valve body bolts. They were loose on my 87's as well.

Kevin

MUDRAIDER

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carry on...

DrZ, somehow that got changed.Fixed now. On mine, the solenoid under the dash was the problem.

Well does his 2.6/auto situation involve stuff like throttle position switch and a coolant temp sensor? I know these items can wreak havoc on auto trans shifting.

Just went through that (again after about 5 years) on my 91 v-6. After putting in a new idle control solenoid and readjusting the TPS....and then finding out I should've loosened the KICKDOWN cable FIRST before all that. Had to redo the TPS setting again without the kickdown cable connected to the belcrank and THEN reconnect the kickdown cable and adjust it to spec.

Apologies if this muddies the water. Please be nice. I have to fart.

FYI, I got 35's under my raider with a coil swap from a LWB and a torsion crank........... and then lots of creative fender cutting. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />