The recent snow that we got caused me to lock my hubs and use the 4 wheel drive on my 1985 4 runner. Just locking the hubs causes quite a bit of noise - when the tranfer case is engaged it turns into a loud whine. In 2 wheel drive with the hubs un-locked - there is no noise. I checked the fluid level in the differential and the transfer case - both are full. It's to cold to pull anything a part - I'm just asking for a few suggestions. For the record - I've owned this runner for about 5 years and I've wheeled it several times. Please don't flame me - this ain't Pirate. The cold weather may be the problem - the fluids were very thick.

Happy new year all !

Ok an up-date:

just got back from a 10 mile ride in the mountains. The temperature is 20 degree's warmer and the more that I drove the more the noise went away. To be honest it was 0 degree's the other day and I only drove about 3 miles. I guess that the fluid never got warm enough to lubricate properly. Today's ride produced normal front axle sounds with the hubs locked.

We know this ain't Pirate. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/nana.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />

I imagine down there you're running 90W, yes?

The other thing you might've been hearing is the brass bushings in the spindle assembly squalling. That's an old problem. They eventually replaced those brass ones with a needle bearing in later vehicles.

Define 'cold' I had -37F this morning <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" />

Synthetic gear oils work well, especially in the colder climates.

Yuh think?

x2 for the brass bushings.

I ended up replaceing the bushing from the dealership.

I can't remember the price for the bushing but it seemed expensive at the time.

They are, like over $30. Marlin also carrys them last I looked.

Spindle bearings/bushings are the likely culprit. Don't replace them though; try lubing them first and that'll prolly take care of it. Here's a cross-post from yotatech (http://yotatech.com/f116/spindle-lubricator-ifs-axle-shaft-pictures-100327/index2.html).

"If anyone has avoided doing this due to not having a spare axle nut (like me), I found a solution that may be easier.

Basically, I took a 1.5" pvc pipe cap, drilled a hole in the end of it, and bolted it to the end of the axle shaft (after removing the hub of course). I drilled and tapped a hole for a grease nipple, then installed that in the pvc as well. I cut some gaskets out of an inner tube to seal the whole thing. It worked very well, and you don't have to remove the axle nut. Also, the axle shaft is held in place so it won't be difficult to get it back in when the whole deal is full of grease.

Here are some photos:

First, pull the hub. Then remove the retainer circlip and washer:



Then, bolt your simple little pvc cap onto the axle shaft, with a couple homemade gaskets. I got a longer bolt to use, but then had to stick some other washers and a nut on there as spacers. I've heard a M8x35 bolt will fit perfect though:



Before tightening the assembly and pumping it up with grease, make sure to push the axle a little ways in and stick a spacer back there so you can see when the grease starts to come out (I stuck a 1/2" extension in as a spacer). Also, you could probably shorten the pvc cap by 5/8" or so and waste less grease in the process. Here is the back side, showing the grease starting to squeeze out:



Even though I had to buy the 1/4-28 tap for the grease nipple, the whole thing cost 10 bucks or so, and was really really easy to make. Also, as I mentioned above, you don't have to remove and re-set your axle nut, and the axle won't get pushed out during the process.

I did both my axles two winters ago if I remember correctly, and have had zero noises or problems since then. My truck has 270k miles on it, so if this worked that well on mine, it should work on most (if the bushings aren't completely destroyed of course).

My metal tool broke. The JB weld joint connecting the nut to the pipe nipple gave way. The PVC unit looks nice...not having to touch the spindle nut. But I am a bit confused. The bolt that goes through the end of the cap, threading to the id of the axle needs to be tight to make the seal but if you are pulling on the axle there is no space for the grease to get through. Sticking a spacer on the back side (where you can see the grease come through) to keep the axle back is a way to keep the axle back but that metal is not very robust to pull hard enough to make the cap/gasket seal...no? Am I missing something obvious?

You don't have to tighten the bolt very much to get it to seal. I had a very small amount of grease squeeze out past the seal at first, but another 1/4-1/2 turn of the bolt took care of that. The metal assembly on the back side didn't appear to distort at all under the force.

Andy

Edit: there is enough space for the grease to get through, even if you don't push the axle through at all (the bearing/bushing isn't a press fit of course). It takes a little while for it to ooze through, but it does work. I first did mine this way until I realized I had no way of knowing how much was coming out the back, at which point I then put the spacer back there so's I could see.