The demons are driving me crazy. There are three things happening and not sure if they are related.

The first and most odd is the electric door locks are making sounds like they are being locked or unlocked. The first few times it happened, thought I'd bumped the locks on the door with my elbow. Today I unlocked the truck and it started to happen. I stood out side the truck a listened to locks click like they are being unlocked. It must have clicked 6 or 7 times and then stopped.

Also, the instruments lights started acting up this week. The brake warning light and A/T Temp lights are coming on. The intensity of the lights fluctuates depending on whether lights are on, blinkers are on, etc ..... Today driving around the lights would go out when the engine was revved up. I thought the alternator was going bad but the charging instrument light is not coming on. The truck is idling fine right at the usual 800 rpm

Lastly the starter will not spin some times. The truck has full power - lights, radio, wipers, etc ... work but when the ignition is hit the starter will not turn. I'll hit the gear shifter a couple of time or rock it through the gears and the truck will start. This has been happening randomly for about six months and I think it has something to do with a sensor on the tranny.

Thanks for you help.

~ Jon

Might be a short in the door wiring, repeatedly tripping the electric locks. Sometimes, the actuator in the door wears out an insulating piece in the bottom causing the same problem.



Have the alternator tested at an Autozone and clean the battery terminals.



Adjust the neutral start safety switch in the console.

check your battery cables

Thanks guys for responding!! <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

The chicken is dead, also sprinkled salt around the truck and putting some wolfbane in the truck.

I had the battery and alternator tested this morning. The battery is bad and needs to be replaced. They said the alternator is starting to go south as well. I'm going to put a new battery in and then test the alternator again. The guy testing thought the alternator reading were skewed because of the bad battery.

Fasteddy - I'm not clear on what the actuator is you are referring to, could you explain a little more?

How does one adjust the neutral safety switch?

Thanks,

~ Jon

The actuator is the thingy (a solenoid, I guess, with bells and whistles) that locks/unlocks the door lock when the juice hits it. It yanks the lock linkage one way for lock and the other way for unlock. On my 95, something went wonky in the PL's so that the actuator was activated in the lock position all the time, so it took Sampson to twist the key to unlock, and the remote didn't work at all, and the lock returned to lock by itself. Never fixed it, just pulled the fuse for the PL's.

Mine's wonky, too. Sometimes when I use the key to unlock the driver's side door, it relocks itself immediately. I usually have to just hold the key in the unlock position for a second and then it's all right.

The passenger side works great, and unlocks all the doors when I unlock it from that side. The driver's door never does that. Doesn't bother me enough to look in to it.

John B.

Hey JB, that is the exact same as my 95 LS. One of these days I', going to open the door up and see if maybe an R&R with cleaning will do anythying.

It's amazingly easy to get the door panels off. I was surprised when I replaced my speakers. Just be careful to remove the panel at the bottom, then push straight up to work it over the lock button.

John B.

Interesting, I noticed the driver side door was real hard to unlock on Monday.

Will be putting a new battery in tonight and testing the alternator again in the morning. Keeping my fingers crossed.

If there is someone in town that rebuilds alternators do it now. Or you are going to work your new Batt to death. Alt has bad diode-s willing to bet.