If the kit is like the link in Kevin's post, I wouldn't use that guide on your crank issue. I'd say the machined guide that Kevin describes is the route to take if you want the best chance of not pulling the crank in the end.

I hope this won't become a factor, Dylan, but I have an engine crane and stand...just in case.

John B.

It turns out that yes, it is similar to that kit. The actual kit number is 1415H, and things are a bit beefier than the ones in the picture, but still the same idea. In fact it is too big for my right angle drill to be able to grab, so I am going to have to drill it by hand besides counter boring and tapping. Any recommendations as to how to build this guide then? I don't have a big enough block of any metal, and if I did I have no way to drill an accurate hole big enough through it. I still have to fight with the little piece of pin that is stuck in the alignment hole though, so I have a while to consider it I am afraid. last night I tried to drive a self tapping screw into the front of the pin piece, but it just turned with the screw and that go me nowhere. Not sure what else I will try today, but it is deep enough in that I can't grab it, but sticks far enough out that the pin can't quite go in far enough to clear the washer. It will fight to the last I am sure, but I will win over it in the end.

You could use a the center section of a front damper to get the pilot for the OD of the crank.

Then the guide would be a piece the pilots on the the ID of the damper and has a hole in it. Basically a donut shaped piece.

I don't have access to a lathe right now (Does that make you happy Bill? ;-) ) so I cant help out, but you should be able to find a local machine shop what can make what you need.

IT's also possible to cut the snout off of another V6 and have the center of it bored out on a lath. Industrial hardware companies also carry hardened drill bushings.

One thought was if you had a dedicated tool made you could rent it out to others on the board. Not a huge fee, just enough to recoup your costs to have it made.

PCC, are you ready to tool a new part?

Kevin

While I agree that is a great idea, I need to get this done today, tomorrow at the latest and I don't have access to anything of the sort so I have no way of making it unless I make it out of wood. Think that could be strong enough? As for local machinists, most won't make some far less critically precise pieces for me because they don't want the risk, and the ones who will won't get around to it till some time next month. Basically I need something I can do in the garage myself with hand tools today so that I can have it back on the road tomorrow night. I have missed nearly a week of work now, and while I love biking, it's getting to be a real pain trying to do everything by bike. I suppose I will think of something though.

I was at Harbor Freight the other day getting some misc welding stuff. Walked by the aisle with the machining equip and thought to myself, I wonder which one Kevin would want. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />


As for the repair, Dylan, don't forget the saying, "If you don't have time to do it right, when will you have time to do it again?"

I hear you on wanting to get in back on the road. I was nearly three weeks with my 95 down. But I knew in my gut that putting the top back on (was already done the t-belt, and then was on to the tune-up) with two bad intakes was not the right decision. And so I ordered the new heads, waited for them to arrive, etc., etc.

High Dylan ...

Sorry on your troubles ... Try getting a few drill bits under the size you want and work your way up to the size you need ...It will stay strate that way ... Go find some "real" cutting fluid ...Not WD-40 or oil but "cutting fluid " ...It will reallllly help ...

One thing I see not talked about is the shape and fit of the crank pulley to the crank snout ... It has to be 'some what good and tight' or the pulley may never stay tight ..And yes some have gotten away with a loose fit of the pulley and it staying ... Some thing to look at ...

If it comes down to having to need parts theres a 95 and two 96 (I think they were 96's did not really look at them) and a mess of Gen1 Montys up here in Prescott for parts if you need parts and can't find them ... Prescott is full of Montys there all over .. Tree Hugger Inc has a boot camp up here (oops I mean theres a Eco College up here ..Sorry <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />...) and they seem to bring Monty's in and they stay ...Not much love for Mitsubishi's up here in Redneck world ...
Hope you get it fixed

David

Hazardous Toys inc

Thank you all for the support. Yes I am going to do it right, I just don't have the ability to make the guide as beefy as mentioned. I did beef up the guide that the kit came with by JB welding a spare washer to the end of the guide, an it turns out to be unnecessary for the drilling portion as after the first mm (which is going to be countersunk anyway), the bit bore in perfectly straight without having so much as a wiggle for the first 15mm or so. Now I have something like 13mm left I need to drill out, and I am to the best threads that the crank had. Unfortunately, that's enough resistance to the bit, that now it is starting to turn the engine <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif" alt="" />

I have been backing it out, cleaning and re-applying the cutting fluid (yes, real, purpose made "heavy duty" cutting fluid from ACE) and cleaning out the little chips, but at this point I am stuck. I had fully intended to change my spark plugs some time soon since there is no telling how old they may be, so should I go for the rope trick? Any other ideas to drill the last half or so of the hole I need to otherwise? I have now cancelled all plans for the weekend even though this not working thing is killing me, thank god for tax refunds. Any other ideas? Anyone in AZ want to work with me as this alone thing is getting kind of old....

Sorry duder, this does not sound like fun. Too far away to help, but here's some moral support: <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

Your trying to take out to much meat at once ..I'm sure your drill bit is getting dull my now ... Try a smaller bit then the size you need .. Your getting to a point the bit may seize in the hole be careful ..Try to sharpen the bit ...Is what's happening is crankshafts are harder the closer you get to the crank bearings ... Thats why I was saying to work your way up to the right size ..Sorry your not closer to me ...