Hello, been floating around here trying to absorb everything for a little bit. Finally picked up an '87 XtraCab 4cyl 5sp 4X4. Currently "stock"
Here are my plans, please chime in where need be:

1.) Remove solid axle from "'79-80" pickup and swap out.
2.) Add 4"-5" LCE solid axle swap lift kit..
http://www.lceperformance.com/Solid-Axle-Swap-4-5-Lift-85-95-P-U-4Runner-4wd-p/2051101.htm
3.) 2" Body lift (distributor clearance *Cough Cough*)
4.) 37X13.5X16 Mickey Thompson Baja Claw Radial SLT..http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/truck.php?item=BajaClawRadialSLT on 16X10 Mickey Thompson Classic Lock..http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/wheels.php?item=ClassicLock
3.) Detroit SofLocker(s) front and rear)..http://www.lceperformance.com/Detroit-Locker-8-4-Cyl-p/1091015.htm
4.) 5.29:1 Gears..http://www.lceperformance.com/Ring-Pinion-Set-5-29-1-8-4cyl-p/1091108.htm
5.) Advanced Adapters Chevy Small Block Conversion kit..http://advanceadapters.com/product/4261/1984-1995-Toyota-Truck-V8-Conversion-package.html
6.) Chevy 350
7.) Everything needed to complete the above <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

This is a basic list of my plans for the pickup. My questions are fairly simple...

1.) After replacing the factory diff's with the detroit, is it necessary to upgrade to the chromoly axles from LCE, or will the factory axles be adequate?
2.) Once the 6" suspension and 2" body lifts are in, would it be wise to move the axles forward? If so, homemade or buy adapters?
3.) Any expected problems with the wheel/tire combo (4.5" backspacing).
4.) Concerning the famous front driveshaft angle, will I have this problem, with this setup? If so, not concerning money, what is the BEST fix for this problem?
5.) Any other expected (catastrophic) problems to be expected from small block swap?

Considering this list is just about what everyone wants, maybe its good to get all this out there anyways <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" /> Thanks for all the help in advance!!

-Dustin

More V8 conversions end up seeing scrap yards/part-outs then ever see the road, so before starting I would reconsider if you really need the V-8. If you just want more power, there are a 200+hp V6(Toyota 3.4 and Chevy 4.3) swaps and 200-400+hp straight 6(Toyota 7mge/gte and 2jzge/gte) swaps that are easier/cheaper to install, lighter, and that are easier on the Toyota drive train. IIRC, one of our members is in the middle of a V8 swap, a search(if you are lucky) might turn up his post.

What are your goals plans w/the truck, i.e., mudding, rock trails, Daily Driver/weekend warrior?
Is this your first Toyota, or 4x4? If this is your first 4x4 you are going a little to fast w/the mods, you want to spend money where you need it, not where others have, or on modifications you don't need.

Well if this one ends up at any place like that, im SOL
Don't plan on letting something like that happen...No this is not my first 4x4 BUT it is my first planned serious project.
I just got through rebuilding the old 22R from the ground up. ALL the goods, just not enough chili behind'r
Drove the chevy around the other day and...yah...that needs to happen. Just can't beat how the V8 moves down the road...

My plans with the truck basically consist of a daily driver and the typical weekend worrior. Not a WHOLE lot of rock crawling type of wheeling but do make the occassional OHV trips with the boys. But mainly a little good'ol fashion mud slingin just about rounds it up over here.

P.S. I have already spent the money where it needs it. The truck is sound.

You will destroy the drivetrain if you swap to the 350, the stock toy axles although tough will eventually explode as will the driveshafts.

Now, if you swap to D44 or D60 front and a corp rear or ford 9 inch or similar and do it that way it will hold.

If you want a super capable and ultra reliable truck I would find a 87 and lower chevy/GMC and pull the drivetrain and put it on the toy.

Otherwise stick to swapping in a V6. The old buick 3800 is an ok choice but they vibrate a bit, could go with a 4.3L v6 from a chevy/gmc or swap to a toy 3.4L 6 or inline 6.

Could also keep the 4cyl and do a doubler and have the crawler transfer case setup. It aint gonna be fast but you will be able to crawl and put down massive amounts of torque.

I wheeled with a guy who had an 85 SFA 22re done up like that with 36 iroks and it was UNSTOPPABLE!.

Bottom line: It aint gonna hold up with the stock toy stuff under there if you swap for the v8.

I think the reason that most Toyota/V8 conversions go bad is because the builders are unprepared for the realities of the swap. They install a V8 while leaving in the Toyota geartrain; pieces that were designed to work with the 105 hp 22R or the 150 hp 3vze V6. Then as soon as they get it running they start shredding transmissions and axles.

On the front cover of Advance Adapters Toyota conversion catalog they show a lifted third generation truck that appears to be running a Dana 44 front axle. That's what I'm talking about! If you're gonna do this, do it right from the beginning, or be prepared to do it later after you've sunk money into the undersized Toyota axles and transmission. If I was you, I'd swap an LS1 aluminum V8 with a 700R4 or 4L60 overdrive automatic, Atlas transfer case and custom Dana 60 Axles. This would be the right drivetrain for a V8 powered Toyota. You probably could get the drivetrain part of you truck done like that for less than $15,000. Then just add suspension and tires and you'll have something that should run reliably. -- Matt

Matt - Good stuff. Is there a preference in trannys when considering the two you listed? Hate to be lazy but what ARE the differences?

CJMT100 - 10/4 bud.

So aluminum LS1 over basic 350 im assuming for weight saving? Maybe you could chime in here as of why that choice. Hate sounding ignorant..

Upgrading to detroits fr/rr with chromoly axles wouldnt be enough? Assuming running the 350/700R/4L60 OD tranny/atlas transf. and custom drive shafts?

Basically "trying" to stay as Toy as possible...not sure if pride should be a factor here lol. But for some reason it keeps hangin around

-Dustin

I like the LS1 because it weighs about the same as a Toyota V6, it's got electronic controls (I like electronic controls over carbs and vacuum advance distribitors), it's efficient, and it won't need headers. You'll want an overdrive automatic for the highway if your going to daily drive, so forget the Turbo 350/400. The 700R4 and 4L60 have non-electronic versions that should bolt right up to the LS1, but I'm not experienced with these to tell which to choose.

For axles try Diamond axle in Colorado. They might be able to make you a 9.5" axles out of Tundra and Landcruiser parts.

Another thing or two about the LS1. The conversion wiring harness is readily available and your gas mileage will be no worse than with a V6 (maybe better if you can keep your foot out of it <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" /> )

Another possibility for a rear axle is the Tundra 10.5"; just out in the last few years on the hipo V8 model. Especially if you could narrow it and still keep the factory disk brakes. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" /> -- Matt

Oooh, conversion wiring harness sounds nice! Wouldnt happen to have a link of some sort for that?

I will say I have never shortened an axle for any application. Maybe I can search for some tips on here...

Keeping rear disc would be super! And I agree with the MPG opinion <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif" alt="" />

Painless Harness for the LS1, and it's ready for the 4L60E transmission too!

If you want to pursue a narrowed 10.5" Tundra axle you will need some good skillz and machine tools like a lathe, or access to someone who has those. Diamond Axle in Colorado is quite able in that regard. Nobody knows Toyota hybrid axles better.

Keep us posted on your progress. -- Matt