Well here is the start of the write up im going to do of a 2.6 engine rebuild. I have it torn down with the head, block, crank at the Napa machine shop to have it all checked and hone the bore. I will post some pics and will go through the whole write up of the rebuild once i get parts back and get the rebuild kit in. I was super impressed with the guy at the machine shop. I had the parts all in garbage bags because i live on a dirt road and didnt want dirt in anything. The guy ripped the garbage bag took one quick glance at the first cylinder and was like "oh a little mitsubishi. The 2.6 right" to me that was very impressive. I will get to work on the write up as soon as i start.

I would crack check the block. Any ideas what you are going to fun for pistons and rings? Chrome rings were stock on that motor and a good choice.

Compare your new pistons deck height and dish size to your stockers. ACL's bearings work very well. The factory pump is the best you will find.

Kevin

Would you source the parts seperately or go with a kit. I found a kit not sure of quality if someone has used this kit let me know what you think.

http://www.rpmrons.com/Mitskits.html

This will only be my second rebuild. the first was a KA24DE block from nissan. Any other tips or tricks specific to the mistu block let me know thanks guys

Personally, I'd go with seperate. ACL makes a good cast piston. I like Hastings chrome rings. Clevite77 bearings. OEM oil pump, vla's, water pump, thermostat. I'd spend the $ and go with head studs instead of bolts. A lot of this stuff is available from Engine Machine Service , who has a pretty good rep on the starquest boards, and while that page is starquest specific, I'll bet he can source the other stuff for the carby motor. I've had good enough success with the Felpro gasket sets, but I get the starion set for the better head gasket. It will work for the carby motor fine, with the possible exception of the the oil pump gasket. Wait until you know bearing and bore sizes before you buy parts. Get new exhaust manifold nuts - single use lockers. Also cut the webs on the exh. mani and have the machine shop flatten the flange gasket surface afterwards on the belt sander.

I'd have the radiator rodded while you are torn down. Cheap insurance on the new motor.

thanks for all the info. I was thinking of going headers instead of reusing the manifold. How much do you think getting all the stuff seperate would cost. thanks again. this is very helpful

That is some great, experienced advice there from fasteddy. I bookmarked that page.

I have been running the ACL pistons for several years. They have held up very well. The only issue I have seen is I get a bit of piston slap when cold. Totally agree on the Hastings rings. Their chrome ring works very well. On the second ring make sure you check the ring groove depth if you use them on ACL pistons.

ACL and Clevite have good bearings. For the balance shafts I really like the ACL that don't have a parting line groove. DONT use a grooved balance shaft bearing.

If your 84 has the giant pot type manifold I would get the 87 and later unit and run it with a converter under the truck. It's a TRI=Y setup with a nice broad power band. If you go with a header look for one that similar to the factory cast part.

Kevin

Ditto on ACL pistons.

The factory bearings are very good, but are now very pricey. Another good bearing is Sealed Power from Federal Mogul.

Frank

Any progress on your rebuild? What is the opinion on the timing gear/chain set? Sealed Power or Perfect Circle?

Sealed Power is what I have used from years on my Turbo 2.6's

the only gasket that I would get for a N/A Build is what has been said you want a 89 conquest head gasket.

Flepro 9116PT

I would as well buy some ARP studs for it as well they are not to bad about $110 for them. You will have to mod the valve cover to get it to fit I just used vice grips. If you do this there is many how to's on the Turbo 2.6 pages to help with it.