Lazybones! I knew I shoulda found a way down there...

My theory is this: If the honing marks are still there on the thrust surfaces, put the heads on it and call it a day for now. That short block is too sound to rebuild yet. Given more leisure time for Larry, my answer might be different, but he only has one day off a week, and long days the other 6.

Help my old brain here. I told Larry the power stroke thrust side of the dside cylinder bank it to the inside of the vee with a clockwise rotation of the the engine, and on the outside of the vee on the pside. Correct? Thrust side will be opposite the side of the crank throw direction? I know that there is also wear on the compression thrust side, but not nearly as much force there. I also look for any rock in the piston, side to side, but you usually only see that with a collapsed piston skirt or a ton of cylinder wear...

I know I'm lazy.... I just couldn't get motivated. Had a big get together yesterday and the ensuing mess to be dealt with into the night and this morning. Couldn't leave it all for Lisa to do, so I played suzie homemaker and got some right awesome egg salad sammiches out of the deal. My coworkers will hate it tomorow though... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/evil.gif" alt="" />

I'm really torn with what to do here. Both of ya'll have valid arguments that make tons of sense. Eddy, my work schedule isn't nearly as hectic as I make it seem. It's the home and church responsibilties that can get me sometimes...

This week and next I have peope taking vacations which loads me up more, but I can make time to do this right. I have delivery trucks to drive during the week and all weekend, so the lack of transportation isn't a key factor. I want to do this the rightest way possible.

Frank, on the measurement you're referring to, is that for if I mill both head and deck surfaces possibly requiring the shim to bring timing back?

Eddy, no clue how to answer your questions, of course <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Yes..... and yes. The major thrust side is the passenger side of the cylinder and the minor thrust side is the driver side. The major thrust side is also the side that the rod oil squirters are on (except on my engine, which has no rod squirters).



You got it.... If it was a forced induction engine, I'd bore it first, then cut the deck to the piston deck clearance after they were temporarily installed for measurement - but a N/A engine isn't quite so demanding on assembly specs and if you know beforehand what the deck height is in relation to the piston top at TDC, you can assume replacement pistons will be close.... so you can have the deck cut at the same time the cylinders are bored. The method isn't quite as accurate, but will save some time.

To do it this way, you'll want to have the heads surfaced first, so you know what has been removed before you think about the decks.

If you want to be extremely accurate, don't worry about the piston clearance beforehand, but don't get the decks cut until later.

Frank

Given alternate transportation, and the funds to do so, build the motor, based on what Frank said about being a long ways toward having the motor out. You have enough $ in the truck for it to be worthwhile, and might as well get all the benefit out of the "machine shop owes me" as you can. And then you can find something else to worry about...

Then built she shall be....

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Frank

a wise decision

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I salute you sir!

Before you do anything else with the heads, clean the head gasket and valve cover gasket mating surfaces of each one really well with a coarse rag and lacquer thinner and measure the head thickness (all 4 corners of each head). Take your measurement between the valve cover gasket flange and the bottom of the head with a good caliper and make sure it's squared up on the head. The standard spec is 3.310"..... any less and the head has already been resurfaced. Get a good measurement all around on both heads.

Next, turn the head upside down and put a straightedge (metal carpenter's 24x12" framing square is what I use) end-to-end down the middle of the head. Turn off any bench lighting and shine a flashlight toward you from behind the straitedge. If you see any light coming through at the bottom of the straightedge, that's the warp you'll need to deal with. Move the straightedge from side-to-side on the head, but parallel to the head C/L. Measure with feeler gauges to find the amount of bow. Then put the straightedge on both diagonal corners and get another view of it. Anything more than .002-.003" and you'll need to try to find someone to straighten them - or get another set of heads.

Frank

Frank - funny you should mention this. I never quite trusted carpenter's squares anymore as they are all tossed about in backends of trucks and made in China to boot.

I've already rebuilt one 3.0L, in process of starting a 2.6L, I see another 2.6L Turbo in my future, possibly a 3.0L unless hazy wants the block, a 5.0L Ford and my 37 Lincoln V12.

So i decided to get THIS along with a professional hone, cylinder bore gage, and master ring. $$$$$ for sure, but when you know you're going to do this thing over and over again....

Well, a carpenter's square is a good start. But if there is something borderline, I would suggest to get a true straight edge (as linked) or rely on your local shop to SHOW you the warp with their gauge tool - and hopefully they havent mistreated their tools. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/scared.gif" alt="" />