You probably won't be able to see any deck etching until the decks are cleaned.

Don't cut the decks until you've finished the heads and know how much was removed...... otherwise, you may have to cut the decks twice.

Forget about inspecting the oil pump - get a new one.

Remove the three oil gallery plugs and all freeze plugs before the block goes to the machinist - that way he can't take any short cuts and the wash job will be better.

Have the machinist polish the crankshaft journals.

Before you disassemble the rods, mark the front and number of each bearing cap with a center punch and don't mix up the rods and caps. A better way is to use number punches and punch across the parting line of the rod/cap, but if you don't have a set of number punches, a center puch works fine - 2 dimples for #2, 4 dimples for #4, etc along the center line of the bearing cap and an extra dimple above the number row for a front-of-engine reference.

Add "check/file" ring gap to your list. You'll want to check every ring in its bore, 1" down from the deck and squared up.

Add "check crankshaft journal/bearing clearances" to your list. You'll want to use plastigauge on the rod and main bearings. On the mains, I like to check the crankshaft in at least 3 positions - one 180 degrees from the other and one 90 degrees from the either - to check for crankshaft straightness/bore alignment as indicated by a change of clearance at the bearing caps.

Frank