Another 3.0L discovery.......

I've thought the reinforced block was a Diamante difference, but I see your '91 block MKontero also has the lower rib. So, it appears that all of the SOHC 3.0L blocks were reinforced as a running change in '90 or '91. Here's a picture of an '89 block - note the lack of the lower horizontal rib:



Frank

Brave man to paint his engine white. If you have the humidty we are having up here in NC then the humidity has been a killer to get paint to cure. Looks good.

It won't be white for long, I'm sure. Little trick I picked up from Frank, makes it easier to find oil leaks.

The humidity's been bad here to. My garage stays closed up all day and there's a fan blowing constantly on the engine. Temps have been getting up to around 120-130 on the thermometer in there. Very oven-like... With daily temps in the mid 90's to low 100's occasionally with 60-80% humidity, it's rather unmotivating to do anything but suck up A/C when I get home. It's only 88 today, so I'm headed out for a few hours. Hopefully wifey will keep resting and stay asleep...

Got a good bit done today. Lisa was in bed til almost 4 o'clock. She needed it. So did I. Good stuff Frank, you've got a sharp eye for this stuff.

Here's some pics...

I think I'm most pleased with how the lower intake turned out. I installed all new injectors with OE orings, seals and insulators.






The timing belt seriously tried to make me its b!tch. I kept getting the PS behind one tooth. Then I remembered somebody saying they led it a tad, but every time I tried, it kept slamming forward. So, I got a pry bar and stopped the spoke of the sprocket from going forward anymore while I put the belt up on it. New Gates timing belt, tensioner and water pump. New OE water pump gasket, water outlets/pipes, valley pipe oring, tensioner spring, and lots of new bolts (because I got tired of playing pick-a-bolt <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" />)









I've got to figure out the brackets for the motor mounts and stuff. It's been several months since I took it apart and I've forgotten how it goes. Any pics that may assist in reassembly would be greatly appreciated...

Got both valve covers mounted and everything below buttoned up...





I'm taking tomorrow and maybe Wednesday off from work, so I should be able to get more accomplished. Brendan, I may be ready for you by the end of the month <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" />

Nice Progress!

Just let me know.. I'll make it happen.

Here are pictures of the motor mounts on both sides. The transmission stays are also installed in these pictures. I have found that it's better to fully torque the motor mount bolts, but leave the transmission stay bolts a little loose. It's then easier to align the transmission stays to the bellhousing - just remember to tighten everything before calling it good.

There is a table in the FSM that indicates which bolts go where.





Frank

Awesome work Larry <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Thanks for the pics Frank. That's how I thought they went, but I wanted to be sure. The pictures in the FSM can leave a bit to the imagination...

Thanks Reuben <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Frank, do you have any of how all the frickin heat shields go?

I swear, if I ever have to any of this again, I'll be photo-documenting every f'in bolt... <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif" alt="" /> My memory used to be soooo much better.

I don't have any here at work, but I might at home. You should install the upper manifold log heat shields with 3 bolts each before installing the engine, but I'm guessing you're having trouble with the lower heat shields that are for motor mount protection. Those can't be installed until the engine is on the frame horns. The bolts go through the saddle brackets with the stud pointed upward. After the saddles/mounts are secure, then you can install the "L"-shaped heat shields over the stud. The long leg of the heat shield goes down and to the rear between the rubber mount and the exhaust manifold. If the first one doesn't want to go on, try the other one - it's easy to get them mixed up.

Frank