My hands on with welded front has been in a FWD car that was truly undriveable. That car was wrecked by the owner in the next track session trying to prove me wrong.
Could be the stabilizing properties of 4wd tempers the effects. I got to admit I get times when plowing snow with my Gen1 that I wish for a locked front.

I was on the ARB webite and they have in their application guide that the front locker does not work with the 3.0 gas motors But they have one for (28 spline, 8.0" Ring gear) nothing for the (25 spline, 7.25" Ring gear). Oddly enough the front locker is the same for the Montero Sport, and the trucks, Model number RD110

The rd110 fits all front 8" axles:
Msport
3.0 gen1
SR
8" gen2

ARB in a 7.25 would be a waste <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />

I was just quotng what they said

Yeah, Charlie, I figured there was a story behind your post. You ought to try it on that snow plow! Mine was GREAT to drive! That is, admittedly, the only experience I have with my Lockrite in snow, though...

I was just wondering what would make a welded front suck on-road. I thought maybe I had missed something, and just assumed when we were talking on-road we were talking 2wd. The whole reason I put Superwinch Manual hubs on was for when I weld up the front. After I just saw 3 Isuzus (mind you they aren't Mitsubishi's) snap 4 different CVs in one weekend at URE that were locked in the front I may wait on welding up my spider gears.

fyi... It took my 4.3 at full throttle with welded up front, bouncing on 33X13.50 LTBs to snap a cv on my truck.

Yeah, Eli, I read about that on the 'other' site. I was surprised having never read about that problem on those rigs before.

Curtis, that doesn't surprise me. It sounds like the Mitsu CV's are where it's at!

Broke it clean off at the stub going into the differential. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

Jon, my comments were about a Locked front as in welded, not a Lockright. The Lockright opens when not under load so turnins to corners are not forced.
With a welded front when you turn the tires are forced to slip on the ground since the diff will not yield. Driving in snow at road speeds the truck will be very difficult to manage. It will want to remain going straight and you need to make a tire slide to get the rig to steer. This has been written about with clutch type LSDs that are setup with preload. The static preload is enough to make a tire slide during gentle driving on low traction conditions.

Now in low speed driving on dirt, mud or snow the welded front will work. Steering effort will be heavy at times and some of the steering joints will let you know this. Driving on rock the axles do not really get any higher loads on a welded diff than they will on any other locker other than they can get the loads at anytime. If you want to get out a switch hubs in and out, fine. I think I would prefer the idiosyncrasies of auto hubs and select from the transfer case. But that has it's issues too.