I've saw new wheel cylinders fail from 2 main reasons, they were cheap junk OR the mechanic didn't install them right. I try to buy Mitsubishi or higher quality aftermarket and I never let mechanics touch my stuff anymore. If I roll through an intersection engulfed in flames its my fault. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Got it, I'm beginning to think that way myself.

The 2 bolts that hold the power steering fluid reservoir are the right size to get things moving. The bolts holding on the rear bumper corners also fit and are a little longer.



The leak is at the left end of the cylinder (good call off-roader).

I have the fsm (thanks for the download), and a Haynes manual, but this is the first time I've looked at the rear brakes on this car myself. Is there anything I should know about disassembly or reassembly that isn't mentioned in either of those?

Also, is this a job I can get done with a bunch of spanners, some pliers, and a screwdriver, or do I need any kind of special tools?

The brake drum and most everything in there is soaked with fluid. I'll need new shoes and a new cylinder, but will the drum itself be ok - just soap and water to clean it or does it need a solvent/gas/etc?



I realise most guys on this board could do this in their sleep, but it's a big job for me - I'm a gradeschool teacher, not a mechanic ..., so please excuse any stupid questions.

Replacing the wheel cylinder you only really need a 10mm open end wrench or (preferred not required) a brake line wrench. I also used a wrench (I *think* its also 10mm but not 100%) and not a socket on the bolts that hold the cylinder on because of the lack of room back there. Also, soak the lines in penetrating oil before you try to remove them. For cleaning the drum itself, nothing more than a can of spray brake cleaner and a rag, it might stink more but wont leave residue.

If your have more than 1 car with drums. The best thing to get is, if you don't have one a drum brake spring tool. So many cylinders new or old are lost due to people slipping with pliers or screw drivers attempting to pry springs into place. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/shiner.gif" alt="" />

Edit, I don't want to go off topic. But is your garage floor real tile? How did you jack the rear wheel off the ground without cracking it? <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" /> I would love to have a tile floor for easy cleanup, but I would have to install a lift in my garage to keep from breaking it. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/lol.gif" alt="" />

Thanks for that, seems it's possible for me to do here. I'll ring around and see if any expats have the parts then I can get out for the holidays <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Yes, they're real tiles. The whole house is reinforced poured concrete and I think the builders just tiled straight onto the concrete, but I don't know how they did it - I wasn't here.

All of the house is tiled that way...



The Mrs took this when one of the dogs heard the car pulling up, the tiles make the picture I think.

Dude your fine. You will never learn if you do not ask. That was exactly like what happen to my bronco. Good news though when you replace the wheel cylinder and get you pads it will not take much to bleed out the air in the lines there. As far as you drum, do not use water. If have or can get break cleaner and wipe it down really well. you should be fine.

Maybe someone can chime in if I am wrong but with the american drum car there is an adjuster at the bottom of the drum assembaly and it needs to be adjuster when everything is back togethor so that the pads just barely touch the drum when you turn the wheel. Good luck with it. At least you are on the right track and should have it fixed no time.

Not sure about there but in the US most shops will warranty brake work for quite some time (1yr?).

If you don't absolutely need this rig running it may be worthwhile to bring it back to the shop that did the work and ask them to fix it. Don't say you took it apart and know what it is. Just tell them it's been leaking.

Need the truck asap, off-roader - it's my only transport, (and I don't trust the place now...).

Stockraider - 10mm open for the brake line and bleed screw, 12mm closed for the cylinder, lots of swearing and a screwdriver for the 2 tiny circlips holding the handbrake cable parts.

This helped... 4x4wire tech - brake cylinder rebuild

If the new seals I just found are good, I'm fixed.

Many thanks all <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

*edit

got it all done - no leaks <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif" alt="" /> , but the brake pedal is soft to the floor, even pumped. I bled out the brakes ok on the problem side - do I need to bleed all of them?

*edit 2

scratch that. Got some pressure in the brake system and the new seals are leaking. Is there anything these people won't sell????????? BAD BRAKE PARTS. FFS!

hey rob, i have mitsu rear cylinder rebuild kit for a 89 V6 LWB with rear drums from before i swapped in a 95SR locking rear end.


if this fits, it's yours for the cost of shipping.

let me know.

dave

Many thanks for the offer Dave, but they don't look right.

This is the picture from the 4x4tech page, they're exactly the same as mine.



The piston washers don't look the same.

I'll get farther afield around the markets again tomorrow and see what I can find.

really? looks to be the same to me, might be the packaging obscuring the view.
don't mean to be a brake pusher <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/notooth.gif" alt="" /> but it's an oem part.
either way, offer stands.
lemme know.
dave <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/cheers.gif" alt="" />