No on the split seats. They have the same "pull-button" on top of the seat back sholders that fold the back forward. Then once the back folds flat, the base release for the tumble. The two cables per seat mentione above run down the sides of the back and then underneath the base where they pull the hook-lock and release the base.

The design of the cable ends is a small metal "rod" that is swaged on the cable end. The rod has an s-type bend so that it has an offset. This offset end feeds through a hole in the seat bracket and then lock in place where the offset step is. Kind of hard to explain, but a pic would make total sense. It's where the offset is that both of my cable breaks happened.

I think I already mentioned in a different thread that due to the $39 cables not being available, I bought a pair of JY seats for $50 just to pull the cables. I figured I already needed two just to fix what I had, so two more on the shelf must not be a bad idea.

Every Montero from 96-2000 has four of these cables. Don't know if the Gen IIIs are the same. I absolutely cannot believe that Mitsu doesn't have them avaialable any longer.

I like my split seats in general. You loose the center arm rest of course. They are nice to have when folding only one. Also, the kids can now individually recline on trips. The one thing that you need to keep an eye on is when you set them back up. Need to make sure both the rear hooks latch. I have found it most reliable to set the back up again first, then push the whole thing back on the base. This gives more leverage and results in a far higher percentage of first-time locking on the base. If I do it all at once from the as tumbled-and-folded, it's not uncommon to get only one of the rear hook with a positve catch.

I ended up having to cut into the bottom cover (felt over plastic) to access the releases on the seat. After looking at how this thing worked I determined the cable for the outbound side had too much slack in it. Unfortunately the only way to adjust the slack is when the seat is up. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/angry.gif" alt="" />

I took some photos during the process & posted them here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/mikemorrisonz/4576335511/in/set-72157623987208146/

What's a better tool, screwdriver(1) or pocket knife(2)? single choice

Screwdriver (0%, 0 Votes)

Pocket knife (100%, 2 Votes)

Total Votes: 2 Voting on this poll ends: 05/18/10 01:51 AM

Nice Mike! I bet the mechanism or basics of it are the same in my gen II. <img src="/forums/images/graemlins/kewl.gif" alt="" />

Hi, I have registered just to post this warning before people start hacking holes in their seats. I know it is an old post but it still comes up high on search engine lists for people with this problem of the seat not folding forward.

You can perform the same latch release without cutting anything.

Underneath the very back edge of the seat base are a series of screws holding the base section on. Obviously you normally get to them when the seat is tumbled forward and it lifts up.

But, for the purposes of this particular problem, which is to gain access to the latch mechanism in order to release it when it is stuck or the internal cable release isn't functioning properly when you fold the seat down, all you need is a right-angled ratchet with a phillips screw attachment and you can feel underneath with your hand and undo them.

Once those screws are removed you can pull the lip of the base section down and wedge something in to the gap to hold it wide enough to shine a torch through and slide in a long flathead screwdriver.

As so helpfully detailed by the OP, you can then flick the latch mechanism up on both sides and the hooks will release, allowing the seat to tumble forward.