your a link off on the chain.
I am pretty sure, glowing manifold was the kicker.
the cam not performing as well as it should.
we all noticed a big difference in the low end with the rv cam.

the cam gear mark should be at like 11:45 vs 12:00
as the tensioner takes the slack up on the left, faceing the motor and moves the chain mark up to the 12:00 position.

my bet is you are one or more links advanced on the cam.

This was what my mechanic and I thought as well, but we were almost sure that wasn't the case, although as of now I would not count it out. We wired up the cam gear and never touched the crank with the head off. Could you please explain more, so I can fix it. So would you mean to take the chain off the sproket and move the sproket back one link then attatch the cam to the gear again? As you said I knew that the cam was legit, as I chatted with EB at length before I decided to buy it. I'm just confused which way to go with it. Thanks

Edit: So with the engine at TDC(zero mark with the crank pully), take the cam gear off and while facing the engine, move it counter-clock-wise back one link and then re-attatch it?

We have a great tech section above in the header:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timingchain/

Read this too; methinks with the cam you're still lookin' for the sweet spot.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cam_degreeing/

Is it just as simple as taking the cam gear off the cam and turning it back one link on the chain and reinstalling the distributor? On my '85 do I intall the distributor with the motor at zero degrees TDC or -5 BTDC? So in essence the cam and the cam gear are just turned back one link while the crank and the chain stay right where they are at TDC?

Edit: I know, I'm being lazy with those quetions, I'll do the reading for some review. I would really like a link or some info on where I can get the nice factory thermostat though.

I"m gona go kidknap my truck from the dealer, before they start charging me for dumb stuff, and fig out the cam tomorrow. I'll check back and see if theres a place I can order the the T-stat. Thanks guys

Missouriman posted about the chain's bright link, is in line with the article I gave you.

4Crawler's website link gives you the t'stat part number. You can also simply drill a hole in the wide part of the flange; Do NOT exceed 1/16" bit.

Distributor always goes in at 0 TDC; do not confuse this with jumpering then checking the timing setting.

READ.

>>>*K...I just spotted this one, I was out chasing Coyotes and stuff. We have a few hundred head of Sheep to watch over.

Here is my advice:

*STOP!!!

Reset.

Roll the engine up to top dead center by hand using a suitable wrench, compression stroke, you can tell when the mark on the dampner lines up with the mark on the tab on the oil pump. On the compression stroke the top timing mark will also be up.

Remove the valve cover, look carefully at the top gear. The dowel pin that locates the top gear should be exactly straight up. The actual timing mark is on the tooth that is slightly left as you face it. If that timing mark is off, you will have overheat/driveability/glowing manifolds issues.

Glowing manifolds mean HOT, next is burnt valves, failed head gaskets, stuff melted and everyone is mad at me.

At this point, ignore the colored links, they no longer matter. They end up somewhere else every time the engine rolls over anyway, normal.

*Really! Ignore them.

IF when your top actual timing mark is at 11:45 position as you face it, and the engine's short block is on Top Dead Center, that is not the problem, it is elsewhere. (Look closely, that can be hard to even see for sure.) Usually we find the top gear's alignment pin is slightly RIGHT of straight up, this is wrong.

If it is off, correct it by taking the gear loose, pull it back from the cam, CAREFULLY move into the correct position and bolt her back together.

Then reset the ignition timing.

Go for a drive, maybe that is all there is to it.

If not that: Run a compression test. We see about one out of 100 that don't realize bolting the head on also opens some of the valves. If a piston happens to be up, or if the cam has to be rotated to align it, valves can get bent.

Often this is not enough to cause a dead miss, but enough to cause all sorts of issues, lack of power and localized over heat are some of them, if it happens to be an exhaust valve then guess what?

Yep, hot manifold.

Note that excessively late ignition timing will heat the manifolds and kill power, or if for some reason the system is not advancing properly. Rich combined with an air leak is a lack of power and hot manifolds, also. *Probably not it, though, but we do see it a couple of times per year.

I know it's hard to realize that a tech at Toyota might have trouble with something being off with the foundation, but those folks hire people too. And what you get is only as good as the one they hired.

Anyway, if you keep having probs, email me direct here at engnbldr@engnbldr.com and I will try and help, let's get you fixed and happy. One thing is for sure, it ain't the cam, all those do is open and close the valves some more and add airflow potential.

BTW: If you chatted with someone on the phone that wasn't me, that was my son Tod. He is only in his forties so he isn't dry behind the ears yet....*LOL**...*anyway, give those things a try, when the foundation is off, no amount of tuning or messing with cams and things will ever fix it..Note in the morning we are headed to the Portland shop but we will be back online by evening...*EB

checking it is what I was going to suggest.

but now you have heard it from the God of the 22RE.

I took a picture of the cam and timing marks and position of the dowl for you guys to see and hear your opinions, but how do you load an image from your computer

ok, i see you can't load pictures, if any of you have pic mail on your cellphone I can send you the one it took, it sure looks very close to being right.
image shack

image shack

After some hassle I got it. The first pic is AFTER I moved the cam and gear back one link, The second pic is where is was BEFORE I moved it. From what you guys have said, the Before pic looks right and the After pic looks wrong. I'm not gonna try to run it until I get some feedback.

Note: both were taken with the engine at 0TDC on the compression stroke.

Thanks

2nd pic looks right. Is the distributor bolt all the way to one side, or about in the middle. It should be more to the middle if the distributor is in correctly.

Where is the timing marks?
The one by the harmonic balancer.